Chiang Mai (เชียงใหม่) is the hub of northern Thailand. With a population of over 170,000 in the city proper (and more than one million in the metropolitan area), it is Thailand's fourth-largest city. On a plain at an elevation of 316 m, surrounded by mountains and lush countryside, it is much greener and quieter than the capital and has a cosmopolitan air and a significant expatriate population, all factors which have led many from Bangkok to settle permanently in this "rose of the north".

Chiang Mai Halal Explorer

Founded in 1296 CE, Chiang Mai is a culturally and historically interesting city, at one time the capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. In the rolling foothills of the Himalayas 700 km north of Bangkok, until the 1920s it could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant trek. This isolation helped preserve Chiang Mai's distinctive charm, which remains intact.

Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city ("city" is chiang in the northern Thai dialect while mai is "new", hence Chiang Mai translates as "new city"). Sections of the wall dating to their restoration a few decades ago remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains.

Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most famous is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside 13 km away.

Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east to the banks of the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where Changklan Rd, the famous Night Bazaar, and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guest houses are located. Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคราะห์) is the centre of the city's (tourist) night life.

Locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi and purchased an umbrella from Bo Sang. Of course this is touristic blather, but kao soi, Bo Sang umbrellas and Doi Suthep are important cultural icons for the locals.

Orientation

Chiang Mai's most salient physical feature is the moat and the remains of the wall surrounding the old city. About 6.5 km in circumference, it is the reference point for navigating around the town.

The east and west halves of the old city each have their own character. The east side has the highest concentration of guesthouses, restaurants, motorbike rental shops, travel agencies, and other tourist-oriented services. In particular, the northeast corner is a warren of guesthouses, restaurants, private massage parlours, and other businesses catering to visitors. The western half is more Thai, with a school for the blind, a coffin shop, the Chiang Mai branch of Thailand's National Library and five or six mostly table-top barbecue restaurants (หมูกระทะ mǔu grà~​tá) almost always packed with Thai customers.

Clockwise from 12 o'clock (north), the main features of the moat and its environs areː

Chang Phuak Gate - ประตูช้างเผือก / Built by King Mangrai c.1296. Formerly known as Hua Wiang ("head of the city") Gate as it was considered the most important. King Saen Muang Ma (1365-1401) built an albino elephant (cháang-pʉ̀ʉak ช้างเผือก) monument outside the gate during his reign. The name of the gate then changed gradually to reflect its presence. Traditionally, kings-to-be entered the city through this gate on the way to their coronations. Taking the road north from here takes one to the intra-provincial bus station, also named Chang Phuak, then onward to Mae Rim, Pai, Chiang Rai and the Lao border.

Si Phum Corner - แจ่งศรีภูมิ Taking the left turn at this point takes one to the superhighway. Straight on leads to a bridge over the Ping River and beyond it, the rail and bus stations. Turning right (south) parallels the eastern boundary of the moat.

Tha Phae Gate - ประตูท่าแพ Centre E moat Built c.1296 as Chiang Ruak Gate after a nearby village. "Tha Phae" means "raft landing". There used to be an outer Tha Phae on the river and this gate, the inner Tha Phae. When the raft landing was supplanted by a bridge, this became the Tha Phae Gate. Rebuilt 1985-1986. The vicinity is by far the area most useful to visitors as it contains the greatest number of tourist services. The Night Bazaar lies due east, about a 15-min walk. There always seems be something going on in the plaza adjacent to the gate. Every Sunday a Walking Street Market originates here.

• Katam Corner - แจ่งก็ะตำ | A "katam" was a "fishtrap". Water flowing into the city from the Hua Lin corner (NW) of the city collected near this corner in a large pond full of fish. The corner took on the name of the tool used to catch the fish. Turning left here leads to the River Ping.

• Chiang Mai Gate - ประตูเชียงใหม่ / Built c.1296 at the founding of the city by King Mangrai. Traditionally the start of the road south to Lamphun. Reconstructed c.1800. Rebuilt 1966-1969. Nearby is the Chiang Mai (fresh) Market, selling foodstuffs. Adjacent are many food stalls, which are popular throughout the day and evening. Across the street to the south is a Walking Street Market every Saturday.

• Saen Pung Gate - ประตูแสนปุง / First mentioned in historical records about 1545. Traditionally used to transport the dead out of the city to crematoria outside the city proper.

• Ku Huang Corner - แจ่งกู่เฮีอง / Refers to a stupa "kuu" containing the ashes of a person named "Huang". Rebuilt c. 1800. Turning left here leads to the Airport Plaza Shopping Centre and the airport.

• Suan Dok Gate - ประตูสวนดอก / On the sign, misspelled in English as "saun dok". Little in the vicinity of interest to visitors.

• Hua Lin Corner - แจ่งหัวลิน / "Hua" means "head" and "lin" meant "aqueduct". At this corner the small brook, Hûuai Kaeo, was lifted over the city's rampart to provide fresh water to the settlement. Turning left here leads to the Nimmanhaemin District, Chiang Mai University, and onward to Doi Suthep.

How is the Climate in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai's northern location and moderate elevation results in the city having a more temperate climate than that of the south.

As in the rest of Thailand there are three distinct seasons:

• A cool season from November - Feb.
• A hot season from March - Jun.
• A wet season from July - Oct.

Get in

Fly to Chiang Mai

• Chiang Mai International Airport IATA Code: CNX / The route from Bangkok is one of the busiest in the country (Thai Airways flies daily almost every hour, with additional flights in the peak tourist season). Other airlines operating direct services to Chiang Mai include:

Domestic

• Air Asia / A well-known Asian low-cost airline, has domestic flights from Bangkok (Don Mueang airport), Pattaya, Phuket, Hat Yai, Krabi, Surat Thani, Udon Thani, Khon Kaen. Used to be the cheapest option if you booked at least a week before, but now the strong competition of other carriers, as well as AirAsia's popularity among tourists, makes this true mostly only if you're lucky to catch a good promo. Regular fare for tickets to Bangkok, including taxes, is from 1,400 Baht (with fees for luggage, food, seat reservation easily adding almost half of that). Promotional fares can be much less. Prices can be significantly higher if you book just a few days before, or want a specific day/flight.

• Bangkok Airways / A full-service carrier positioning itself as an "Asia's boutique airline" (for example, they provide a lounge to Economy passengers both in Chiang Mai and Bangkok), flies from Ko Samui, Bangkok (Suvarnabhumi), Krabi (seasonal), Mae Hong Son and Phuket. Surprisingly, Bangkok Airways can be cheaper than the budget airlines (but not to the Samui where they have a duopoly with Thai Airways), particularly if you book just a few days ahead.

• Nok Air / Thai low-cost carrier, flies from Bangkok's Don Mueang Airport eight or more times a day (typically from 1,200 Baht all-in and up. Promo fares can be as low as 450 Baht but note that these do not include at least 300 Baht for a baggage if you have any). They also fly from/to Udon Thani three times a day, the price is in the same range, and while it's still somewhat more expensive than a (12-hour) bus trip, it's several times cheaper than the price of the Lao Airlines flight to Vientiane, which is easily accessible from Udon Thani.

• Thai Lion Air / A subsidiary of the leading Indonesian low-cost carrier, Lion Air offers attractive fares from Bangkok (Don Mueang) with several flights a day and numerous onward destinations in Asia (especially in Indonesia, Malaysia and China) available from Bangkok. There's a new flight from Pattaya as well.

• Thai Airways / Thailand's flag carrier, flies from Bangkok (Suvarnabhumi) and Phuket. International connections are possible.

• Thai Smile Airways / Lower-cost subsidiary of Thai Airways. Flies from Bangkok (Suvarnabhumi) and Phuket. From 1250 Baht all-inclusive to Bangkok

• VietJet Air / relatively new low-cost competitor from Vietnam, often has affordable fares in advance, and, unlike other low-cost carriers, flies from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi, not Don Mueang. Be careful if you have a long-distance connection from Bangkok, however, as there are some reports of delays.

International

• Air Asia flies from Hangzhou, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Hanoi and Macau.
• Bangkok Airways flies from Mandalay, Siem Reap, Singapore and Yangon.
• Cathay Pacific - from Hong Kong.
• HK Express - from Hong Kong.
• China Airlines - from Taipei, Taiwan
• China Eastern Airlines from Kunming, Yunnan Province, China
• China Southern Airlines from Guangzhou, Guangdong Province, China
• Korean Airlines - Four flights weekly from Seoul/Inchon
• Lao Airlines - from Luang Prabang in (Laos) — the flight originates in Vientiane
• Silk Air - from Singapore
• Thai Airways - doesn't have direct international flights, but has many connections via Bangkok; if you arrive to/depart from Thailand on their flight, it's wise to check the through fare from Chiang Mai, as it often will cost just several hundred Baht more (yet slightly more if stopping over in Bangkok for a few days or departing from another airport).

The airport is 3 km southwest of the city centre, 10–15 minutes away by car. Legal airport taxis charge a flat 150 Baht for up to 5 passengers anywhere in the city. Uber charges the same flat fare if going from/to the airport. If you take a metered taxi, the fee will start from 40 Baht plus a 50 Baht service fee from the Meter Taxi counter. The taxis operate from the exit at the north end of the terminal, after baggage claim and/or customs, walk into the reception hall and turn left. The airport has a shuttle minibus service available, offering drop-off to any hotel in the city for a flat fee of 40 Baht (July 2023) - perfect if you're arriving alone and don't mind waiting 10-15 minutes for a few fellow passengers. The minibus counter is at the southern end of the terminal, near the International arrivals. Alternatively, take Bus 4 to the city centre for 15 Baht, or charter a tuk-tuk or songthaew for 50-60 Baht per person (if alone, negotiate with a songthaew driver who already has a few passengers). Most hotels and some upmarket guest houses offer affordable or free pick-up/drop-off services.

There are numerous ATMs and exchange offices of several banks in the main airport hall, which is very long and combines both international and domestic arrival and check-in booths on one floor - but you'll need to take an elevator to the second floor once you've checked in, and that's where you won't find neither exchanges nor ATMs. The exchange rate, while not terrible, may be not as good as you can find in town.

Take a bus to Chiang Mai

Bus stations

Chiang Mai has two official bus stations, consisting of four bus terminals:

• Arcade Bus Station (Terminals 2 and 3 plus the Nakhonchai Air Terminal) - สถานีขนส่งอาเขตเชียงใหม่ | At the far end of Kaeo Nawarat Rd just before it meets the superhighway Phone +66 53-242664

Buses from destinations outside Chiang Mai Province use this station. It has two official terminals, separated by a tuk-tuk stand and a road and tank trap-like obstacles. The private bus company Nakhonchai Air has a separate terminal behind Terminal 2.

The Arcade Bus "Station" is a mess, with no obvious order to the layout. There are ticket offices in both terminals. Further complicating the confusion, behind Terminal 2, Nakhonchai Air has a separate terminal. If you walk from the front to the rear of the Terminal 2 building, you will see a big "Nakhonchai Air" sign. Keep walking, and cross the parking lot to the rear, you will come upon it. The terminal is normally hidden from view by out-of-service buses.

Terminal 2 has a tourist police office, ATMs, food vendors, and many ticket sellers, including the booking office for BKS government buses. Buses depart from here for Bangkok, Phitsanulok, Udon. There seems to be no logic as to what buses go to which destination from which terminal and there is a good deal of overlap.

Terminal 3 is the larger and newer of the two. It has an air-conditioned waiting room with Internet cafe upstairs, small food vendors, ATMs, the booking window for Green Bus (Window 20), and numerous other ticket sellers. Buses for Bangkok, Phitsanulok, Ubon, Korat, Nan, Hua Hin, Luang Prabang, Mae Sot depart from here.

• Chang Phuak Bus Station (Terminal 1) | This station handles buses within Chiang Mai Province including Mae Rim, Chiang Dao, Fang, Tha Ton, Phrao, Hot, Chom Thong, Doi Tao, and Samoeng.

In effect, there is a fifth bus terminal if you count songthaews as buses. From the Warorot Market, songthaews depart for a variety of locations within a radius of about 50 km, such as Samoeng. The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common are red songthaews (hence the alternative name of rot daeng, or "red car", which roam the main streets in the city. Warorot Market (west bank of the Ping River) is the most common terminus for songthaews that travel along fixed routes. From Warorot Market, white songthaews travel to the eastern suburban town of San Kampaeng, yellow songthaews travel to Mae Rim and Samoeng in the north, blue songthaews travel to Sarapee and Lamphun in the south, and green songthaews travel to Mae Jo to the northeast. The songthaews line up along the road that is parallel the Ping River, between it and the market. Destinations are posted on round, yellow signs but are only in Thai.

From Bangkok

A variety of daily buses leave frequently from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit), offering varying choices of price, comfort and speed.

• Rattling government buses make frequent stops at every minor township. The journey takes around 12 hr and costs 200 Baht. Staff at Monday Chit station and elsewhere in Bangkok may deny these buses exist, or claim the price is the same as the 1st class busses.
• Non-stop 24/32-seaters and 1st class buses such as Nakhonchai Air provide larger seats and snacks; making the long trip more comfortable. They manage the trip in around 9 hours and it costs around 488-550 Baht. Be cautious about the so-called "VIP" buses touted on Khao San Rd. They may be cheaper, but you may end up crammed into a 2nd class bus or worse.

At Arcade Bus Station, where you'll arrive there is a public mini bus that runs from Arcadia bus station to the center of town (old town), it leaves from the road between the two arcadia terminal buildings and costs 15 Baht. This will likely work out cheaper for tourists than the red songhaews and is less hastle; however staff staff will only direct you to the songthaews.

There are also songthaews that wait nearer Terminal 3, adjacent to the road that bisects the two terminals. Look for local people getting into them, and ask the driver if he goes to your destination (if the songthaew is empty, don't forget to confirm the price). A shared trip to Tha Phae Gate (south edge of the old town) should cost 20 Baht each, though you may have to wait for a driver who agrees. Virtually all songthaews will pass Warorot Market (city centre, just after crossing the river), from where it's just 1 km walk to Tha Phae Gate, or numerous (see "Get around" section) songthaews to other areas.

Drivers will approach you once you've arrived and will ask as much as 100-200 Baht to the city centre/Tha Phae Gate, showing you a bogus price list with "fixed" prices. Bargain: it's just 5–6 km, so the fair price for tuk-tuk there is 50-60 Baht, and is not more than 100-120 Baht even to the opposite side of the city. It may be difficult to bargain with these drivers, however. A good idea is to ignore them from the start, walk out to the nearby street, and catch a passing tuk-tuk/songthaew there. If your luggage is light, you can walk to the centre, but it's quite a long (1 hour or more) walk, as the Arcade bus station is located in the city's northeast outskirts. Nowadays, you can also use Uber app for a affordable yet comfortable ride - a trip to the old city area will likely cost 45-70 Baht, but be sure to pinpoint your location really well, so the driver could find you, as the bus station area is quite large.

From Hua Hin

Buses depart the Hua Hin BKS Station at 08:00, 17:00, and 18:00 for Chiang Mai, 12.5 hr, 851 Baht (Oct 2013).

From Pattaya

Buses depart the Nakhonchai Air Terminal in Pattaya (Sukhumvit Rd, ~60 Baht motorbike taxi fare from Beach Rd) for Chiang Mai several times during the day. Last bus about 21:00. Fare is 785 Baht (Nov 2013). Travel time is about 11 hr, with no stops longer than 5 min. Buses to Pattaya from Chiang Mai leave the Nakhonchai Air Terminal at Arcade Station daily on roughly the same schedule.

From Phuket

There is one daily direct - Green Bus service from Chiang Mai's Arcade Terminal 3 to Phuket Terminal 2 and back. Cost is 1,646 Baht (Dec 2022), tickets can be purchased online on their website. This trip is a killer: close to 24 hours on the bus! Although the bus is a state-of-the-art Sunlong vehicle and the seats are great (VIP24 bus: three business class-like seats in a row, with a video entertainment system - the movies are mostly in Thai however, with some limited English selection), this is simply too long time to be on a bus. If flying is not an option, definitely it's better to break your trip into two parts by stopping for at least one night in Bangkok (going from/to Chiang Mai by sleeper train preferably) or another city roughly in the middle, like Hua Hin.

From Udon Thani

From Udon to Chiang Mai: Phetprasert Bus Company has three buses a day depart from in front of the Central Festival Shopping Mall. Depart Udon/arrive Chiang Mai times are: 17:45-05:25; 18:45-06:25; and 20:45-06:40. Fare is about 636 Baht (Apr 2023). Buy your ticket via eHalal Travel Group at the Phetprasert ticket counter in the downtown bus station, a 5 min walk from Central Festival. There is an inconvenient out-of-town bus terminal that may have more buses to Chiang Mai.

From Chiang Mai to Udon: Phetprasert Buses leave Chiang Mai/arrive Udon at: 14:30-02:15; 17:30-05:15; and 19:30-05:30. Buses arrive at the Central Festival Shopping Mall, a convenient location 5 minutes from the downtown bus station. Fare is about 636 Baht (Apr 2023). Buy your ticket via eHalal Travel Group at the Phetprasert ticket counter in Arcade Terminal 2. Buses depart from Arcade Terminal 3.

Travel by train to Chiang Mai

Services from Bangkok leave on a regular daily schedule and take 12–15 hours to reach Chiang Mai. If you go by night train (recommended), try to choose one which arrives late to get an opportunity to see the landscapes. They are impressive, with bridges and forests and villages and fields.

Daytime services leave at 08:30, and 14:30 with second-class (281 Baht) and third-class (121 Baht) carriages. The seats in each class differ in softness and width, and can become uncomfortable after 10+ hours.

Overnight sleepers provide comfortable bunks with clean sheets and pillows in first- and second-class. First-class beds (~1,400 Baht) are in private two-bed compartments. In second-class (~900 Baht), the carriages are open but each bunk has a curtain for privacy. First-class is always air-con, second class is sometimes air-con. There are usually four trains per day with sleeper accommodation, though only two of these will have first-class compartments. Station staff will be able to help you.

Carriages are kept clean; the toilet and floors are regularly mopped during the journey. Vendors make regular rounds selling snacks, drinks, and lacklustre meals. Vendors will try to inflate the prices for tourists so be prepared to get ripped off, haggle, hop off quickly at stations to make a purchase (or order through the window), or bring your own.

In second-class, the bunks are folded away leaving pairs of facing seats. At some point in the evening, or on request, they are flipped down into bunks and made up into beds. In first-class, the bottom bunk is used as a bench seat before having a futon mattress deployed onto it in the evening.

If you're not in the mood for bed when your carriage mates are bedding down, you can head off to the dining car, which provides fairly good food and drink at not too great a premium. Later in the night, the dining car can be converted into a disco, complete with loud music and flashing lights.

Tickets can be bought up to 60 days in advance at any station in Thailand. Booking in advance is advised, especially for the popular 2nd-class overnight sleepers. Larger stations accept payment with UnionPay cards. This is fairly safe, as SRT is a state-owned company. If you are not yet in Thailand, the e-ticketing SRT website will let you buy and print an e-ticket. Some find it tricky to register. You have to avoid any special characters while filling the registration form. You must book at least three days in advance, and you can only purchase 1st and 2nd class air-con sleeper tickets which are 150-200 Baht more expensive than fan-only car tickets. The price on-line is the same as at the ticket office. Various travel agencies, some available to contact from outside Thailand, can also procure tickets for delivery or pick up, with fees typically starting at 100 Baht.

SRT charges 90 Baht to transport a bicycle between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

• Chiang Mai train station / Many songthaews and tuk-tuks await each train's arrival. If you want to walk, exit the station, cross the open square in front and turn left on the first major road you come to (Charoen Muang Rd); this road goes directly to city centre.

What to see in Chiang Mai

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep The quintessential image of Chiang Mai with its large gilded chedi, visible from the city on a clear day. Built in 1383 during the Lanna Thai period, legend has it that the temples site was selected by an elephant sent to roam the mountain side, where upon reaching a suitable spot, it trumpeted, circled three times, knelt down and promptly died, which was interpreted as a sign indicating an auspicious site. The temple offers grand views over the city, but no reward is without effort as you must accent the 200-plus steep steps of the Naga-lined stairs. The climb may be a strain in the high altitude's thin air for the less fit, so you may opt to take the cable car for 20 Baht. For the Visaka Bucha holiday around May each year, it is traditional for people to walk from the zoo to the temple and vast numbers make the pilgrimage to the top, which takes around 4–5 hours.

In the vicinity there are several other attractions you may want to consider visiting. The Bhubing Royal Palace Gardens are 4 km further along the road from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, with a reasonably easy walk along the meter-wide road shoulder. Or you can get a shared songthaew from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep for 30 Baht, but you may have to wait until it fills up. Further along the road is a hill tribe village, and although tourist-oriented, is really worth the trip. There are many shops for local handicrafts, etc. These are the people from the far north of the country, many originally from Myanmar. There are two areas in the village that require entrance fee: 10 Baht to enter a flower garden (where women can take pictures using traditional clothes) and a hill tribe opium museum (the museum is in a very poor condition); and 10 Baht to enter the hill tribe waterfall (man-made).

Getting there is a source of much consternation to many travellers. Clearly marked songthaews leave from Pratu Chang Phuak, next to the 7-Eleven. Prices are listed as 50 Baht up and 50 Baht down, though once on top the price back down suddenly changes to 60 Baht. The drivers wait until they have sufficient (up to 8) passengers before they depart, potentially making for a lengthy wait. Most guidebooks advise taking a songthaew from Mani Nopharat Rd, resulting in the drivers milking the tourist cash-cow and raising their price from a reasonable 40 Baht to a ludicrous 500 Baht.

Another option is to take a songthaew from your hotel to the northern gate of Chiang Mai University for 20 Baht (if you are close to the city walls), where there will be several songthaews waiting on Huai Kaew Rd to get a full load of passengers for a trip up the mountain. They seem to congregate around the Chiang Mai Zoo, so if you just say "zoo" to the driver he will know what you're talking about. Prices range from 40 Baht for a one-way trip to Wat Prathat to 180 Baht for a full round-trip tour, including the temple, Bhubing Palace Gardens, and the hill tribe village, with an hour at each location, but you may have to wait until there are sufficient people who want the same tour or be prepared to pay more. You can also get between many of these by buying point-to-point tickets at the time you want them, or walking some segment. Any songthaew up the mountain road may be a trial for those prone to motion-sickness, so take appropriate precautions. Also, there may be several little annoying additional costs foreigners. To enter the Doi Suthep is free for Thais, and 30 Baht for Foreign Muslims. Tour operators will ask 700 Baht for a tour.

The journey from the city can be made by motorcycle or a bicycle (with appropriate gearing). The final 12 km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if bicycling.

What to do in Chiang Mai

Cinema

• Chiang Mai Vista Cinema - Kad Suan Kaew) | Ticket prices vary depending on the duration of the film. The place is not very popular among the locals since it is a bit old and worn. Most showings are in Thai, only a few a day in English.

• Major Cineplex | Ticket prices depend on the duration of the film and seat type. Honeymoon seats generally cost 40 Baht more than standard seats. If you would like to avoid the crowd, avoid going on Thursday, Friday or Saturday nights. Make sure to check the language of the film prior to booking. Some children's movies are dubbed into Thai.

• SF Cinema | In the Promenada shopping mall outside Chiang Mai (about 6.5 km from Tha Phae Gate) at the corner of Rte 1141/1317 and Rte 3029

Festivals & exhibitions

• Bo Sang Umbrella & Sankampang Handicrafts Festival | Takes place around the third weekend of Jan at Ban Bo Sang, Sankampang. The festival is in the form of a "street fair" in which the central road of the village is used, with shops on both sides. Shops are decorated in Lanna-style, most with the well-known umbrellas, as well as with traditional lanterns. In addition there are contests, exhibitions, cultural performances, local entertainment, and assorted shows day and night. There is a grand procession decorated with umbrellas and local products, a variety of handicrafts for sale, northern-style khantoke meals and the Miss Bo Sang pageant.

• Chiang Mai Flower Festival | Staged every year during the first weekend in February. The city is awash with vibrant colours ranging from the electric orange and lilac colours of the bougainvillea to the velvety blossoms of petunias in all shades of pink, white, and purple. The strident red of the poinsettias, bought by many at Christmas and New Year, is echoed by beds of scarlet salvias. Homes and shop owners alike line the city streets with colourful flower boxes. The sheer profusion of colour that the flower festival and carnival brings to Chiang Mai aptly gives the city its name "Rose of the North". On all three days of the festival, prize blooms are on display at Nong Buak Had Park near the city centre. Many types of flower, miniature trees and orchida are put on display for the judges to choose the best of the species. Landscape specialists put on an elaborate display, which includes patios and waterfalls with exotic decorative plants and flowers. The best part of the flower festival is on Saturday. The parade lines up from the train station to Nawarat Bridge so the police close most of Charoen Muang Rd around 08:00. The VIP viewing stand is right next to the bridge in front of the Chiang Mai Governor's home. The parade route goes up Tha Phae Rd to the gate and turns left and follows the moat to Nong Buak Had Park. The parade moves at a slow pace and stops several times so there is plenty of time to take pictures of the colourful floats, pretty girls and hill tribe people in native costume. The paraders hand out roses to spectators lining the road. When the parade finishes everyone heads to Nong Buak Had where all the floats, award-winning flower growers and landscape projects are all on display. There are plenty of food stalls in the park, and in the late afternoon the Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival starts. The party goes well into the evening until the new Flower Festival Queen has been chosen. This is a great time to visit Chiang Mai, as the air is cool and the evenings fresh and clear. If you want to see the festival make sure you book your hotels and flights well in advance.

• Inthakin or Tham Boon Khan Dok | City Pillar Festival in Chiang Mai. This is a six-day festival where the city pillar spirits are propitiated to ensure the continuity of the city. Occurs in May or June as part of the Northern Thailand lunar calendar. Very large event focused around Wat Chedi Luang.

• Loi Krathong and Yi Peng Festivals - ลอยกระทง | If you like candles placed in colourful paper lanterns, fireworks, beautiful girls in traditional dress, parade floats, lots of food and parties. Don't miss the Loi Krathong festival, which in Chiang Mai lasts for 3 full days, the last night being that of the 12th full moon of the year (which is usually in Nov). In the small town of Mae Jo, north of Chiang Mai, they start the festival on Saturday night by simultaneously launching thousands upon thousands of hot air balloons called khom loi. Loi Krathong coincides with the northern Thai (Lanna) festival known as "Yi Peng" (ยี่เป็ง). Due to a difference between the old Lanna calendar and the Thai calendar, Yi Peng is held on a full moon of the 2nd month of the Lanna calendar ("Yi" meaning "2nd" and "Peng" meaning "month" in the Lanna language). A multitude of Lanna-style sky lanterns (khom loi (โคมลอย), literally: "floating lanterns") are launched into the air where they drift with the winds. The festival is meant as a time for "tam-bun" (ทำบุญ), to make merit. People decorate their houses, gardens, and temples with khom fai (โคมไฟ): intricately shaped paper lanterns which take on different forms. Khom thue (โคมถือ) are lanterns which are carried around hanging from a stick, khom khwaen (โคมแขวน) are the hanging lanterns, and khom pariwat (โคมปริวรรต) which are placed at temples and which revolve due to the heat of the candle inside. Chiang Mai has the most elaborate Yi Peng celebrations, where both Loi Krathong and Yi Peng are celebrated at the same time resulting in lights floating on the waters, lights hanging from trees/buildings or standing on walls, and lights floating by in the sky.

• Mae Jo Lantern Release | A huge lantern release (It is often referred to as the 10,000 lantern release, but there are not as many as that) happens near Mae Jo University on the Saturday before Loi Krathong, in 2013: 16 Nov. The DMC Buddhist Sect puts this on and though it is billed as "for local people" this event has no connection with Chiang Mai or Lanna events, and is not promoted by local government officials nor included in their program. The lantern release takes place at the end of a ceremony that begins at 18:30, with the release at 20:00. The event is free of charge, but respectful attire is required and alcohol is forbidden. A tourist-targeted event (which costs about 3,000 Baht) occurs in the same location on the following weekend.

• Prinses Dara Rasmi rememberance day | Prinses Dara Rasmi was a consort of king Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and a member of the original royal family of Chiang Mai. 9 December 1933 she died. Now there is a yearly event around her villa. The event has a fair and perfomances of traditional dances.

• Songkran Festival - สงกรานต์ | The Thai Water Festival is celebrated as the Thai new year from 13-15 April (though it may begin a day or two early). The most obvious sign that you're in the middle of the festival is when you get soaked by someone pouring a bucket of water over you, or squirting you with a water gun. This tradition evolved from people tossing water that had been poured over holy statues, since this water was expected to be good luck. Now, it takes the form of a free-for-all water fight, and you will undoubtedly be drenched. It's also a way of staying cool during the very hot and humid month of April. Put your mobile phone in a plastic bag.

Hiking and other activities

While it is probably possible to do alone, there are several companies along the main road who organize 2-3 day long hiking trips. The prices are mostly similar (except when you book at the hotel of course), just stroll along the main square road. Multiple offices often share bookings with the same companies and thus the program is usually similar too - but different packages exist, depending on price and duration. The program consists of something like minivan pick-up and drop-off, light hiking with a guide, sleeping-over in a hill village, visiting some hill tribe and elephant zoo, rafting. Some basic food should be included too (ask to be sure), and it should be possible to leave the bags at the "booking office".

Massage

• Fah Lanna Massage | A small and very cosy massage shop close to the Iron Bridge. Clean, friendly and professional, Fah Lanna gets consistently high ratings in customer reviews. First, customers get a gentle foot-bath with scrub and comfortable clothes to change into and after the massage they are offered ginger tea and a cold towel. The decor and the background music are beautiful and add to the experience. After collecting 10 stamps (1 stamp per 1-hour treatment) they give a free massage. Massages are excellent, the prices seem to have increased due to its success.

• Green Bamboo Massage | A small, charming studio in a typical wooden Thai house located inside the moat. The staff are trained in Thai massage therapy. Also offers individual daily or weekly courses in traditional Thai massage, Thai yoga private massage, Tok Sen massage and Thai oil massage. Seminars are run by Ms Mesa, a certified and experienced masseuse.

• Kiyora Spa | Kiyora is a provider of Thai-Lanna private massage modalities incorporated with Western massage techniques. Price of a private massage includes transport service within the city.

• Le'Lux Massage | Excellent staff and ambience. Services include Thai massage (250 Baht/hr), oil massage (200 Baht/hr), scrubs, manicure (150 Baht), pedicure (150 Baht). Tea and water are included.

• Let's Relax | Does professional massage in a very clean surroundings complete with air-con, the sound of running water and gentle scents. A 45-minute foot reflexology session costs 350 Baht, nearly twice the price of the competition, but is worth every satang after a long trek.

• Nantana Massage | Very knowledgeable and friendly staff. Air-con. Oil, foot and neck/shoulder massage available.

• Sunday Massage | Very clean and pleasant modern decor. The masseuses are very friendly, and provide decent, skilled massages. There is a table in front of the shop where the masseuses often hang out when idle.

• Thai Massage Conservation Club - Blind masseurs | Massage is performed by blind masseurs, who speak (some) English. They offer traditional Thai as well as oil massage.

• Viang Ping Massage and Spa | Prices average 200 Baht for Thai, foot, or head and shoulder massages. 250 Baht for oil massages. Very clean and well-run business, professionally run by Fern, manager-proprietor. All massages based on the Lanna, northern Thai-style, using pressure points and energy lines. Homemade coconut oil and natural facial, body scrub, and wrap products. Fern also teaches massage and spa services to individuals or occasionally to small groups. Loyalty cards for regular customers, free massage after 10 visits. Thai and oil massage courses, also spa courses.

Motorcycling

• Motorcycle touring is a great way to explore northern Thailand. One good day trip out of Chiang Mai is up and over Doi Suthep, which will take you up to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and beyond the mountain to the reservoir. A perennial favorite among bicyclists and motorcyclists is the Samoeng Loop, a 100 km circuit into the mountains and back to Chiang Mai.
• Motor-scooter touring as far as Mae Hong Son and suitable for the less experienced motorcyclist.

Muay Thai (boxing)

After football, Thai boxing is the national sport of Thailand. It can be seen in three different "stadia", in reality more like boxing rings in warehouses.

• Kalare Boxing Stadium | Real muay Thai fights (almost) every Monday and Friday at 20:30 with 10 bouts ranging from young novices to local champions to locals v. foreigners. Spoiler alert: The locals usually win. The smallest of the three stadia it is nearly open-air, but with a new tent covering and good lighting. This is much more authentic than the frenzied beer bar atmosphere of the other two locations.

• Loi Kroh Boxing Stadium | Fights are usually held 3-4 nights per week. Look for flyers posted up all over the old city. They usually have about 8 fights and feature Thai fighters as well as a few matches with foreign fighters. This is not the best location to see muay Thai with a family, as it is surrounded by girlie bars and during a break between the fights a group of ladyboys sometimes will dance and occasionally strip. After about 23:00 the complex is opened up for free, letting all the vendors (flower sellers and others) in. If you are on a tight budget you may be able to see a few of the remaining fights for free this way.

• Tha Phae Boxing Stadium | It hosts around 8 fights per show, including a few matches with foreign fighters. This is the largest of the three stadiums and has food as well as beverages served. Gambling is prominently featured.

Rafting

Raft trips down the Mae Tang River are offered by several companies and can often be combined with elephant riding or mountain biking. During the dry season (January - Feb) water levels are relatively low with only grade 2-3 rapids, but during the rainy season (June - Oct) higher water levels make for a more exciting grade 4-5 trip.

River cruise

• Mae Ping River Cruise | Two-hour cruise with a refreshment stop at a Thai farmer's house. Hotel pick-up. Be aware that the Mae Ping is a grotty, slow-flowing stream the colour of greenish khaki with nondescript banks.

Sports

• Aerobics | Aerobics sessions are held in the car park of Lotus on the superhighway every weekday from 17:30. The sessions are very popular and tourists or visitors to Chiang Mai are welcomed. Regular water aerobics classes, incorporating Tai Chi and yoga exercises, are held at the Centre of the Universe Swimming Pool.

• Cricket | Northern Thailand may seem an odd place to find an international cricket tournament. Every year since 1988 more than 200 cricketers from around the world gather at Chiang Mai for the tournament. The week-long tournament for amateur players, with a sprinkling of test stars, it is held at the historic Chiang Mai Gymkhana Club, generally at the start of April.

• Extreme Sports Centre - X-Centre | Kiwi-run business, totally buttoned-down and professional. Bungy jumping; off-road buggies; dirt bikes; paintball; indoor drift carts; Xorb ball; sports restaurant. Transport available from Chiang Mai at 09:30, 13:00, 15:00.

• Football (soccer) | Go watch the local football team, Chiang Mai FC, play at 700 Year Stadium. Fixtures and info in English or visit the Red Lion English Pub in the Night Bazaar two hours before the game to get a free ride (nearly always available).

• Golfing | Chiang Mai is one of the great golfing destinations in Thailand. The beautiful mountain backdrop, the unrivaled services and affordable green fees made golfing here quite an impressive experience. There is The Annual Chiang Mai Golf Festival during May to June, when almost every golf courses offer very affordable green fees.

• Mountain Biking | Just west of Chiang Mai lies the beautiful Doi Suthep National Park, its summit at 1,650 m, 1,300 m above the valley floor. Chiang Mai Mountain Biking runs daily downhill trips and nature cross country rides.

• Rock Climbing | Approximately 55 km east of Chiang Mai is Crazy Horse Buttress, a 60 m, orange- and black-streaked monolith jutting out of the green Mae On Valley. Crazy Horse boasts more than 130 bolted routes between (French system) grades 5 and 8a, which makes it an ideal destination for beginners and experienced climbers alike. Spend several days exploring every part of the crag, or just spend a day or an afternoon above ground as a break from exploring the magnificent caves of the region. Climbing guides and information are available from Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures.

• Yoga | The diversity of yoga studios in Chiang Mai rounds out the image of Chiang Mai as a centre for massage training, healing, and spas.

• Chiang Mai Kayaking | Offers guided kayaking tours in the surrounding area for both beginners and experienced.

Swim

Chiang Mai swimming pools open to the public vary in quality, cleanliness, and accessibility. On balance, those pools which are operated to internationally recognised standards of water quality are those which are privately owned by foreign investors.

• Centre of the Universe Swimming Pool and Resort | Open to tourists and other visitors. There are 3 swimming pools and decks. A detailed map and directions in Thai and English can be printed from their website. The pool is sanitised using salt water.

• Chiang Mai Land Swimming Pool | Open to the public. It has a pool deck and also has a restaurant and pool-side service. The pool is sanitised using chlorine.

• Hotel Pools - Some up-market hotels such as The Orchid on Huay Kaew Rd allow non-guests to use their pools for a fee. Travelling time from the city centre is around 10 min. These are sanitised using chlorine.

• The Lake at Huay Tung Tao | further along the Irrigation Canal Rd than the Centre of the Universe and after the 700-Year Sports Stadium, as you head towards Mae Rim (Rte 121), about 12 km from the city centre. Takes 15-20 minutes by tuk-tuk/taxi.

• Seven Hundred Year Stadium - Rujirawong Swimming Pool | A huge sports complex built for the SE Asia Games, held in Chiang Mai in the early 1990s, and now a public sports and recreation centre. The pool is sanitised using chlorine. Membership is required but it's open to anyone. It costs 300 Baht/year and you have to provide two passport-size pictures. Single entry is 30 Baht after that.

• Waterfalls and Natural Pools | The pools at the bottom of the waterfalls are not really big enough for swimming, but are a great place to cool off at the height of summer. During the dry season some of the waterfalls dry up. Head for the high ground and you will still find pools full of fresh water. There are usually quite a few students hanging out there from the nearby university, who will happily practice their English conversational skills with you.

Wildlife

Numerous reports have been released on the ethics of using elephants for entertainment, citing the dangers and hidden abuse behind the industry, and the use of phajaan on baby elephants. According to a National Geographic report, this technique involves isolating the baby from her mother and: "[I]n addition to beatings, handlers use sleep-deprivation, hunger, and thirst to 'break' the elephants' spirit and make them submissive to their owners.... Elephants are typically covered in bloody wounds and rope burns when released from the crush after three to six days." Elephant riding has long-term negative physical effects as well, as elephants' bodies are designed to carry weight on their strong legs, not their comparatively weak backs. If you care about these issues, research the parks thoroughly to decide where you want your tourist money to go.

• Baanchang Elephant Park | Although they offer an "Elephant's Day Care" program with no riding, be warned that they also offer elephant rides through their "Elephant Training Courses."
• Eddy Elephant Care Chiang Mai | Although their brochures states, "We try the best to take a good care of the elephants," they offer elephant rides.

• Elephant Jungle Sanctuary - EJS | EJS is an ethical and sustainable eco-tourism project located approximately 60 km from the city of Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand. Founded in July 2014, it is a joint initiative between members of the Karen hilltribes and Chiang Mai locals who were concerned about the welfare of elephants in Thailand. The Elephant Jungle Sanctuary project also provides many Karen people with employment, education, and financial support. Half-day, full-day, and overnight visits to the sanctuary are available. Weekly volunteering opportunities can also be arranged.

• Elephant Nature Park | A renowned sanctuary for rescued and abused elephants, established in 1996 by Lek Chailert, a native Thai woman who has become an internationally-recognized elephant advocate. During a day visit you will feed and bathe the elephants, walk with them around the scenic 50 acre park, and be treated to a vegetarian buffet lunch. Cats and dogs rescued after the tsunami also live at the park, dozing on benches and getting lots of love from visitors. Day and overnight visits as well as one week volunteering opportunities can be booked via the website. Pick up and drop off at your hotel in Chiang Mai.

• Elephant Retirement Park | Established to create a haven for retired elephants formerly working in building yards, a sustainable habitat for the elephants to live in a safe and natural environment free from profiteering and neglect. Family units are never separated and herbal medicines are used to keep the animals healthy and enjoy a better quality of life. There is no riding or beating of any kind. The main focus of the park is to promote the well-being of retired elephants. Visitors and volunteers can expect to work with the local mahouts to care, feed, and bathe the elephants.

• Friends for Asia Elephant Camp Volunteer Project | After a two-day orientation in Chiang Mai, coordinating staff sends volunteers to the elephant camp, roughly a one hour drive from the city. Volunteers stay from Monday to Friday bathing, feeding, caring for and learning about elephants. Lodging is in a tree house on the premises. Two week minimum.

• Mae Saturday Elephant Camp | An elephant camp in the hills about an hour's drive north of the city centre. It has an elephant show, which includes elephants playing football and painting, not natural activities for these creatures. "Like elephants used in the elephant trekking industry, young elephants used for painting must be broken and experience the pain of the phajaan process. Over this time baby elephants are starved, shackled, and beaten, until their spirit is completely broken and will submit to the will of their captors. Once young elephants have undergone this process they can being learning to paint.

Buy

Chiang Mai is a great place to shop. Sprawling markets during the day and night carry items from affordable trinkets to skilfully made local crafts.

Clothing

• Nok 'Em Ded Designs | Unique styles from simple to extravagant. English-speaking owners & staff. Jewellery is handmade by the artist owners. Great quality T-shirt collection.

• Palmy Shoes | Handmade leather shoes and accessories. The owners speak English and all shoes are made locally.

Groceries

• Kasem Store | A small store a few doors up from Chang Moi Road, situated near but not in Warowot market ( to the east of the walled city and just before the Ping River). Has those difficult to get items such as real powdered milk, black loose leafed tea, assorted good cereals, assorted pastries, etc. Has a good assortment of foreign goods including vegetarian and vegan food. Good English spoken.

Visit a Muslim Friendly Mall in Chiang Mai

• CentralFestival - Measuring 250,000 m², with 250 shops, it rivals the Central Plaza Chiang Mai in size. Central Festival opened in late 2013 and includes an ice rink, IMAX and 4DX cinemas, dozens of restaurants and shops on five floors. A food court on the fifth floor as well as at the ground floor level (with better prices). All banks and mobile phone companies are represented.

• Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport - On five floors, with a food court, banks/ATMs, and multi-screen cinema. It also has a Cultural Centre attached selling many crafts, a large food market, and an extensive selection of Thai ready-to-eat stalls in the basement.

• Kad Suan Keaw - กาดสวนแก้ว | Great location, just off the moat's NW corner. Decent shops, very good Tops Supermarket with selected Halal food, restaurants and banks/ATMs.

• MAYA Lifestyle Shopping Center - เมญ่า | The Rimping Supermarket on the lowest floor is open from 06:00-24:00. The cinemas on the top floor are open late. Restaurants and bars on the open roof afford good views of Chiang Mai.

• One Nimman - A shopping centre in pseudo-Italian style. Many smaller shops at the ground floor, a kind of department store on the second floor. Warning: People who cannot walk very well should not use the escalator to the second floor. Once you are up, it is not possible to go back with the downwards escalator, but you need to go through the entire department store, a 250 meter walk passing 10 short flights of stairs. There is no warning sign for this when you approach the escalator!

• Promenada Resort Mall - พรอมเมนาดา | This mall is significant distance from the city centre, though there are free shuttles; otherwise a phone call is required to get a taxi back to the city since there is no taxi stand. Spacious, two floor, sprawling mall opened in 2013. The immigration office is also located here.

Markets

• Anusarn Market - During the day time the Anusarn Market area is devoid of any vendor stalls. All the permanent shops, bars, and eateries around the inside walls of the market area are open for business. Every afternoon the Anusarn Market vendors move in, erect their large tent type stalls and open. Good shopping, good restaurants, and in a back corner there is a ladyboy cabaret that puts on a one-hour show at 21:30 at a reasonable price.

• Chiang Mai Gate Market - A major shopping venue for fruit, vegetables, meat, and fish for locals. Between the ring roads and in the vicinity are numerous food stalls.

• Kalare Market - A large covered arcade full of shops with an open food court and entertainment area. The food court operates on a coupon system: you buy coupons from the cashiers, then redeem them at the many small adjacent food stalls. Cheap dining. The market has bars, many shops, private massage shops.

• Malin Plaza Night Market - If the Night Bazaar is the place tourists go at night, Malin Plaza is where young Thais go. It's proximity to มช ("maw chaw", the local nickname for CMU) means that in the evening this place is crawling with teens and twenty-somethings. Clothing is young, trendy and affordable. Cheap restaurants abound, including a number of all-you-can-eat table-top barbecues, usually priced about 175 Baht per person.

• Night Bazaar - ไนท์บาร์ซ่า | A huge indoor/outdoor commercial maelstrom centred on the Night Bazaar Building on the west side of Changklan Rd. The Night Bazaar can be considered an entire region of the city as it incorporates the Anusarn and Kalare Markets as well, with the borders being ambiguous (and unimportant). It can take a concerted effort to find something different among the near identical stalls selling tourist-oriented sunglasses, T-shirts, textiles, watches, luggage, caps, and anything else small enough to sell from a market stall. You rarely see Thai people shopping here. On the east side of the street you will find the Anusarn and Kalare Markets with wider offerings. }}

• Sompet Market - Just south of the moat's northeast corner. Mostly a fruit and veg market for locals, but close at hand to the many guesthouses in the area so a good place for visitors to stock up on grub. Lots of prepared meat and meals as well.

• Tha Phae Walking Street Sunday Walking Street Market | This market is enormous and takes up several blocks on either side of Ratchadamnoen including from Ratchawithi to Ratchamanka on Prapoklao (from the 3 Kings Monument to past Wat Chedi Luang). The street is blocked off to traffic for local craft vendors to layout their handmade wares. There are food vendors strewn throughout. It starts at 16:00, but not everyone is set up until around 18:00. Runs late, but most vendors start to pack up around 22:00 or so.

• Warorot Market - กาดหลวง / Kad Luang | This sprawling indoor/outdoor market is where the locals shop and is worth a visit to look over the plethora of fabrics, spices, tea, and dried fruit piled up along the aisles. Across the road is a flower and fruit market and an out-of-this-world fireworks stand. At night the street is packed with snack stalls.

• Wualai Walking Street - Saturday Walking Street Market | In the old silver-working district, it's a smaller version of the Sunday market with many of the same vendors.

Motorbike rental

• Lanna Rentals Co Ltd - Tam, a lovely Thai lady, and Tony, her British partner, run a motorbike rental service combined with a coffee shop, bar, and restaurant. He's a bike expert. She's expert in people, creating great food and a convivial ambience. Excellent coffee, food, and bikes. Weekly and monthly rentals available.

Halal Restaurants in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat Noodles in curry broth, traditionally served with chicken (gai) or beef (neua), but available some places as vegetarian or with seafood. Another local specialty is hang ley, Lanna-style Beef curry. For those tired of eating rice or Noodles there's also a wide range of excellent international food restaurants, from affordable hamburger stands to elaborate Italian restaurants.

When you come to Chiang Mai you should try a khantoke dinner and show. Although these are just for tourists it is still a nice way to spend an evening. The first khantoke dinner was held in 1953 by Professor Kraisi Nimanhemin who wanted to host a special event for 2 friends leaving Chiang Mai. Two more such dinners were held, both in 1953, thus "khantoke" dinners are not "historic", but rather a relatively recent invention. Khantoke literally means small bowl, low table (khan = small bowl. tok = low table) There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting.

The range and value of International food in Chiang Mai is unsurpassed in Northern Thailand and there is a full range of Halal restaurants from Australian/British/Irish, through French and German to Italian, Spanish, American and Mexican. Considering how remote Chiang Mai is from the major centres of population in Asia, there are a remarkable number of Western restaurants.

Vegetarian

It can be hard to find strictly vegetarian food in Chiang Mai, as fish and oyster sauce are used frequently, and the local Buddhist monks themselves often eat fish. Thus, asking for your dish to be prepared "like the monks", which works in other places, does not get the same results in Chiang Mai. There are a few completely vegetarian options.

• Anchan - Excellent vegetarian food, perhaps the best in Chiang Mai.

• Blue Diamond | Thai and Western, huge selection of items for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Great salads, fruits, fruit juices, noodle dishes, bakery, good breads.

• Gulf Halal Restaurant | Lebanese owner/chef caters to middle eastern food lovers. Large portions of delicious tabbouleh, tahini salads and humus alongside fresh falafel and flat bread. Shisha/nargila/water pipes are available as well as mint tea.

• ImmAim/Pun Pun - A mix of Thai and other styles, run by laconic locals linked to a local farm. The falafel is lovely, but different, and the salsa it comes with is delicious. Pasta can be quite sweet, and the biscuits are good.

• Ming Kwan Vegetarian Buffet | A different range of Thai vegan dishes from the norm. A focus on faux-meats, the veggie sausage is great, and the faux-fish in curry sauce is good. Of course, bamboo shoot stir fry, noodle soups, etc., means there's lots to try. They cook during the day, so other dishes often appear from the kitchen.

• No Name Buddhist Buffet - Delicious vegan buffet at low prices. There are a few great dishes: the tofu, mushroom, and lemon grass wrapped in banana leaves is addictive; the het-hom (shitake) and other protein/gluten goodies are lovely; the steaming noodle soup is a great addition to a meal if you've arrived late and want to warm up the buffet dishes. The earlier the better as when dishes run out, they aren't remade. Also, you can buy some vegan supplies.

• Pun Pun Vegetarian Restaurant - Thai vegetarian with organic ingredients from local farmers and many vegan-friendly options. Run by a local self-reliance and seed-saving centre outside the city.

• Taste from Heaven - Thai vegetarian with vegan options. Owned by a friendly English expat, this restaurant offers curries and noodle dishes in a comfortable and clean setting, with both indoor and garden seating.

• Vegan Heaven - A 100% vegan restaurant in the old city of Chiang Mai. It has a wide variety of meals: the usual Thai dishes in vegan, such as khao soi, tom yam, tom kha and pad see ew, but also breakfast meals, sandwiches and even vegan hot dogs and burgers.

Muslim Friendly Hotels in Chiang Mai

Accommodation in Chiang Mai is generally cheap, even by Thai standards. All types of lodging are available from inexpensive guest-houses with little or no service to the typical high rise hotels and elaborate garden resorts. The latest boom is Thai-style boutique resorts located near the old city centre - several have been built since mid-2005, and offer excellent service in quiet garden settings; most are fairly small with as few as 8 rooms and a pool, and are decorated with Thai crafts and antiques.

Evenings in Chiang Mai are cooler than Bangkok and the south during the dry season, so air conditioning may be less of a priority.

https://flights.ehalal.io for the latest room rates in Chiang Mai

Stay safe as a Muslim in Chiang Mai

Emergency contacts

• Fire: 053-241777
• Police - emergencies: 191
• Rescue Team: 053-218888
• Tourist police: 1155, 053-278559

Crime

Chiang Mai, like most of Thailand, is quite safe, even at night. The dark streets can look forbidding but crime is rare and visitors shouldn't worry unduly. As always, Muslim travellers should take extra care in all poorly lit or more remote areas. Don't carry valuables in a bag after dark as the most common tourist related crime here is bag-snatching by youths on motorbikes. Mind your bag especially if you are walking on a dark street at night.

The safest approach is to act like your Thai hosts and wear reasonable clothing (shoulders and chest covered) medium-length skirts, long shorts or long pants, speak in a moderate tone of voice, and avoid flashing money or jewellery. Not only will respectable Thais appreciate your behaviour, you are much less likely to become a target of any criminal activity.

Scams in Chiang Mai

Some scams from Bangkok have started to rear their ugly heads in Chiang Mai. Two in particular are worth watching out for: the gem scam, where you are talked into buying near-worthless gems at far above their real value; and the tuk-tuk scam, where a smooth-talking tuk tuk driver tells you that the attraction you want to see is closed, and instead offers you a sightseeing tour for 20 Baht (or some similarly unrealistic amount) - needless to say, the tour will either consist of nothing but overpriced gift shops, or will smoothly segue into the gem scam. See the "Stay Safe" section of the Bangkok article for more details.

Smoke

Chiang Mai's smoke levels can be discomforting, and sometimes dangerous, during burning season which starts around Makha Bucha Day (end-Feb to early Mar) and lasts about a month. Although there is a ban on burning, the whole of northern Thailand often falls under a thick haze during this period, with tens of thousands treated for smoke inhalation. Rice farmers burning off fields are commonly blamed for the smoke, but according to the Department of Air Quality there is an extensive range of burning activities during this season. In addition to slash and burn farmers clearing fields, a smaller proportion of farmers may burn land in order to clear forests and expand fields, to flush out game, or to trigger the growth of specific mushroom varieties. As a result, there are typically dozens of deaths, and for example in 2007 58 people died of smoke-related heart attacks. You are well advised to avoid Chiang Mai during this period. If you intend to visit at this time, you are advised to check on smoke levels in advance. Thousands of residents, both foreign and Thai, leave Chiang Mai at this time to escape the smoke. The government is apparently uninterested in fixing the problem: in 2015 they blamed it on outdoor cooking. The present solution is to spray the streets with water to "moisten the air". There is no political will to tackle the burning of rice fields and forests, which is the cause of the smoke. On 10 March 2015, dangerous PM10 particles measured over 255 mcg per cubic metre of air in Chiang Mai, well above the unsafe level of 120 mcg (this is the Thai government standard which is more than twice the maximum level set by the World Health Organization [WHO] at 50 mcg). Neighbouring areas can be as bad or worse, Chiang Rai for example, was at 306 mcgs, so moving on to a neighbouring province will generally not help: the pall of smoke stretches from northern Laos, across Thailand to eastern Burma. Here you can find the actual situation.

Water

Tap water should be regarded as non-potable. Liquids from sealed bottles nearly always are, and should be used wherever possible. Nearly all restaurants use ice that is made by professional ice-making companies and is generally safe. There are street side water vending machines (1 Baht per litre) throughout the city. Using one saves money and a lot of plastic refuse.

Telecommunications in Chiang Mai

Express shipping

DHL
Log 2-6, 1st floor, Montri Hotel, Ratchadamnoen Rd
Just north of the Tha Phae Gate inside moat. World-wide express shipping. Packaging services.

Internet

The government of Thailand censors Internet access. 2010 estimates place the number of blocked websites at 110,000 and growing. Roughly 77% are blocked for reasons of lèse majesté, content (content that defames, insults, threatens, or is unflattering to the king, including national security and some political issues), 22% for pornography, which is illegal in Thailand. Some web pages from Al Jazeera One, Al Jazeera Two, CNA (Channel News Asia), Yahoo News, the Post-Intelligencer newspaper (Seattle, USA), The Age newspaper (Melbourne, Australia) dealing with Thai political content are blocked. The Daily Mail (UK) is blocked entirely.

Many guesthouses, hotels, cafes, restaurants, and even swimming pools, offer Wi-Fi connections. These are usually free or available for a small charge. If you are travelling with your laptop you should be able to connect to the Internet within a 500 m radius of your Chiang Mai city-based accommodation at little or no cost.

In November 2012, the Ministry of Information announced the launch of 3,000 free Wi-Fi hotspots in Chiang Mai. The scheme, called ICT Free Wi-Fi for the Public by AIS, offers a download speed of 10 Mbit/s for up to five hours a month. Hotspots can be found near schools, shopping centres, hospitals and government offices. Those interested must sign up for the free service at ICT Free Wi-Fi, after which you will receive a user ID and password.

Internet cafes can be found everywhere within the city. Prices vary from 10 Baht/hour (in "gaming" places filled with local children) to 60 Baht/half-hour (2 Baht/minute) and more. Most places charge per 15 or 30 minute block, others by the minute. The cheapest and most comfortable places with fast connections, webcam, microphone, and Skype, are along Huay Kaew Road near the main entrance to Chiang Mai University, where the cost is 10-20 Baht.

Telephone

• Directory inquiry service: 183/1133
• International and domestic operator-assisted service: 100
• Overseas dial-out code: 001
• AT&T International operator for collect calls: 001 999 11111
• Mobile phones in Thailand have 10 digits, including the leading zero. Land-line telephones have 11 digits, including the leading zero.

Cope

Dental

• Elite Smile Dental Clinic - Sparkling clean dental facilities with modern equipment and great hours. Patronised by many expats.

• Grace Dental Care Clinic | Modern, state-of-the-art dental clinic. Many of the practitioners there, about 15 total, have studied abroad. Most, if not all, speak excellent English, as does the staff.

• Mukmai Dental Clinic | Dr Suttipong is a terrific dentist, almost painless treatment. Friendly and accommodating staff and English spoken. Reasonable rates and convenient location.

Laundry

There are laundromats and laundry services, charging around 30 Baht per kg, all over the city, but they all wash cold. There is a laundromat that has 3 machines that can do hot washing as well on Chaiyapum Rd (road along the moat from Si Phum corner to Tha Phae Gate) about half way between Sompet market and Tha Phae Gate. Opposite there is a cafe from where you can watch your stuff while having a beer.

Medical

• CM Mediclinic | Thai- and English-speaking healthcare centre/medical clinic providing comprehensive medical services for travelers, such as vaccinations and full health check-ups.

• Loi Kroh Clinic | Small clinic for the treatment of minor ailments. Experienced, English-speaking doctor. Small pharmacy on the premises. In and out in 15 min, drugs in hand.

Where to go next after Chiang Mai

• Chiang Dao — an hour north of the city, and a good starting point for treks into the mountains
• Chiang Rai — a relaxed city 3 hours north, and a transit point on the way to the Golden Triangle and Laos
• Doi Inthanon National Park — the highest peak in Thailand (2,599 m), 60 km SW of Chiang Mai
• Lampang — urban Northern Thailand without the commercialism, 100 km SE of Chiang Mai
• Lamphun — a scenic town with a long history and a longan festival, 26 km SE of Chiang Mai
• Mae Hong Son — a picturesque little town with lush valleys, rocky streams and a small lake, 235 km from Chiang Mai on Rte 1095. By public bus about 6 hr
• Nan — the former capital of a small kingdom filled with history and temples and surrounded by mountains
• Pai — a tourist-oriented town, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a broad traveller & backpacker scene.

Border crossings

Chiang Khong - Huay Xai, Laos
Six hours by bus (from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal, east of the old town, daily 08:30) to the border where you can catch a boat across the Mekong River to the Lao side, The bus will stop about 1 km shy of the border, tuk-tuks will be waiting to take you the remainder of the way. From Huay Xai also there are slow (2-day) and fast (6-8 hr) boats ply the Mekong to Luang Prabang. Buses are also available to Luang Prabang and north to Luang Namtha.

Mae Sai - Tachilek, Myanmar
Mae Sai and Tachilek lie 5 hr north of Chiang Mai on the Thai-Myanmar border. Best known for their border markets. A popular place to pop over the border for a few hours before renewing your Thai visa. There are no consular services so you cannot get a new visa here. It is possible to get a 14-day Thai visa on re-entry to Thailand which can come in very handy if you do not have any time left on your current Thai visa. The Myanmar fee for a same day entry permit is USD 17 or 500 Baht, and so it is better to use US dollars. Many people buy Western alcohol, especially wine, while in Myanmar due to the very large duties imposed in Thailand.