Sarajevo, is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and its largest city, with 430,000 citizens. Most of the city is within the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but some parts are in the Republika Srpska. Sarajevo is very tourist friendly, especially in the Old Town in the center of the city.

Understand

History of Sarajevo

Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting and varied cities in Europe. It is a place where the Western and Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It is both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace through multicultural tolerance. The city is traditionally famous for its religious diversity, with Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Catholics, and Jews coexisting here for centuries. Additionally, the city’s vast historic diversity is strongly reflected in its architecture. Parts of the city have a very Western-European look, while other parts of the city, often blocks away, have a completely distinct Ottoman feel. It is truly the city where east meets west.

Some important events in Sarajevo’s history include the 1914 assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which led to World War I, and the 1984 Winter Olympics.

The city has physically recovered from most of the damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of 1992-1995. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to explore. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, Serbs or anyone else. There is little crime, with the city ranking as one of the safest in Southeastern Europe.

Orientation

The city of Sarajevo stretches west-east along the river Miljacka; the main arterial road and tram routes tend to follow the west-east orientation. It is set in a narrow valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides.

Most tourists spend a lot of time in Old Town (Stari Grad). The eastern half of Old Town consists of the Ottoman-influenced Bascarsija (BAHS CHAR she ya; etymologically baš (head, main), čaršija (bazaar, trading area) in Turkish), while the western half showcases an architecture and culture that arrived with Austria-Hungary, symbolically representing the city as a meeting place between East and West.

• Tourist Information Centre, Sarači 58. (updated Nov 2021)

Climate

Sarajevo has a humid continental climate, since mountains surrounding the city greatly reduce the maritime influence of the Adriatic Sea. Summers are typically hot (record high of 41°C in 2008) with an average of 46 days per year above 32°C, while winters are snowy and cold with an average 4 days per year below -15°C. Rain can be expected in every season, with an average of 75 days of precipitation per year, which in winter often falls as snow.

Get in

If you are staying at a a private residence instead of a hotel, you should register with the local police within 24 hours of arrival. Failure to register may result in a fine or possible removal, but most likely won’t bother anyone.

By plane

• Sarajevo Airport (Medjunarodni Aerodrom Sarajevo, Butmir Airport,), Kurta Schorka 36, Sarajevo 71210 (6.1 km southwest of the railway station, in the suburb of Butmir). The following airlines operate service to and from Sarajevo Airport: Adria Airways (Ljubljana), Air Serbia (Belgrade), Austrian Airlines (Vienna), Croatia Airlines (Zagreb), Eurowings (Cologne/Bonn, Stuttgart, Berlin), [Lufthansa] (Munich Airport), Norwegian, Stockholm Arlanda Airport seasonal), Pegasus (Istanbul-Sabiha Gocken, only certain days of the week), Qatar Airways (Doha) and Turkish Airlines (Istanbul-Atatürk). (updated Oct 2015)

At the main hall of the airport (after the customs, Central Hall) there are for instance currency exchange (at the center floor booth), lost & found (after the customs to the right) and a bookshop (after the customs to the left, at the NW end of the central hall, located near the entrance doors), where also SIM cards (BH Telecom) are sold. When departing, the fast food area upstairs is accessible even before check-in or baggage drop is made, and the duty free shop upstairs after the security check accepts euros as well.

The Alipašin Most Railway Station (Željeznička Stanica Alipašin Most; address: Safeta Zajke) might be another (secondary) railway station in Sarajevo.

From Croatia

The Zagreb-Bosnia train seems to have been cancelled since December 2016.

The only international train to Bosnia operates from Zagreb. The journey is quite picturesque, and the journey time

Get around

Sarajevo is a small, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is next to impossible if you have a map (although getting lost in Bascarsija’s winding streets can also be part of the fun!) Very good and free maps can be obtained from the tourist information office, shopping centers, and hotels. A map app on your smartphone is fine, too, and some bookstores may also sell the traditional printed maps of the city.

Asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People don’t know the names of streets a block from the building they’ve lived in all their lives. However, they won’t tell you this, and as a rule will point you in some direction, usually not the right direction. Taxi drivers can’t be expected to find anything but the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian—showing the driver on your map will come in handy.

By foot

In Sarajevo, street signs are few and far between, and small and on the sides of buildings too far away to see when you’re standing on a street corner. Building numbers are more or less consecutive but don’t follow the “hundreds” styles of the United States, e.g., 23 Bjestiva street may be blocks from 27 Bjestiva street.

By public transport

GRAS operates public transportation in Sarajevo.

The center of Sarajevo is served by a spinal tram network which makes a counter clockwise loop around the central district. This tram network opened in the mid-1870s and was the first in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Sarajevo’s tram network is therefore among the oldest in Europe. Tickets should be purchased in advance from kiosks labeled tisak on the street or from the driver, where they cost slightly more (1.80 KM, paid in cash). Tickets should be validated upon boarding the vehicle and are valid for a one way trip only. Changing tram or bus means validating a new ticket. A day card valid for unlimited travel on all local public transport in Zone A is available for about 5 KM. Inspectors board public transport very frequently: if you can’t reach the validator machine because the tram is too crowded, then don’t board the tram. If you are caught without a valid ticket, you will be escorted off the tram and be fined 26.50 KM.

The tram network consists primarily of a main line following the flow of the city between Ilidza and Baščaršija (line ), with several minor branches.

See

With the exception of the Tunnel Museum and the Bosna spring, all landmarks are located in or around the old town, or reachable on a walking distance. Several walking tours are available, a free guided tour starts every day at 10:30 at the crossing of Gazi Husrev begova street and Mula Mustafa Baseskija street (address: Velika Avlija 14) and covers most of the Baščaršija.

Baščaršija

Baščaršija is the historic district of Sarajevo. The cobbled streets, mosques and oriental-style shops at the heart the city feel like a world away from Europe when the call to prayer starts. You could be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church or a synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time. In this old bazaar you can find dozens of shops selling handmade copperware, woodwork, and sweets. Many historic monuments are situated around Gazi Husrev-begova street.

• Sebilj (Baščaršija, Pigeon Square). 24/7. Pseudo-Ottoman wooden fountain in the middle of an open square in the old town of Sarajevo. It was built by Mehmed Pasha Kukavica in 1753, and under Austro-Hungarian rule moved to its current location in 1891 by Austrian architect Alexander Wittek. Three replicas of the fountain exist, respectively in Belgrade and Novi Pazar in Serbia, and in St. Louis. The fountain offers shadow and drinkable water to travelers. The surrounded Pigeon Square got its name from the countless pigeons swarming around. Feeding pigeons is allowed, and a seller with a mobile trolley sells corn to tourists to feed the birds. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

• Morića Inn (Morića Han), Sarači 77 (Baščaršija, entrance is on the south side of the block, from the Sarači street). 08:00-22:15. The only preserved Ottoman Inn (han literally means roadside inn) in Sarajevo, built in 1551, under the benevolence of Gazi Husrev-Beg’s endowment (vakuf). It served as a caravanserai, able to accommodate up to 300 guests, 70 horses, and offered 43 rooms where travelers could spend the night. On 29 July 1878, the inn became the scene of the protest movement against the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Bosnia, and the People’s Council (Narodni Odbor) was founded here. The building was damaged or destroyed by fires numerous times and rebuilt each time, notably in 1697 and most recently in December 1957 when the entire complex was burnt to the ground. Reconstruction took place from 1971 to 1974, and Persian calligraphic inscriptions from poems written by Omar Khayyám, a 12th-century Persian poet, were added as decorations. The property ownership to the inn was returned to the Gazi Husrev-Beg endowment in 1998, and houses a carpet shop and traditional restaurant, occasionally hosts exhibitions, and offers business space for purposes that match the historical context and purpose of the building. Stairs on either side of the inner patio allow visitors to reach the first floor with the rooms. Free. (updated Nov 2021)
• Clock Tower (Sahat-kula), Mudželeti veliki (next to the Gazi Husrev-bey’s Mosque). The clock tower, at 30 metres, is the tallest in all of Bosnia, and dates back to the 17th century when it was constructed by Gazi Husrev-beg next to the mosque that also bears his name. The tower has a staircase with 76 wooden steps arranged in a square, and displays the time on all 4 sides. When Eugene Savoy of the Austrian army laid siege on the city in 1697 and looted it, the tower was set on fire, but restored in 1762. After the Austro-Hungarian occupation, the upper part of the tower was upgraded, and the decaying Turkish clock mechanism was replaced by a new one from Gillet & Johnston, made in London in 1873. The original clock mechanism was moved to the Vratnik mosque where it remains on display until today. The last upgrade dates from 1967, when the dials were gold-plated. A peculiarity of the clock tower is that it appears to be the only remaining clock tower in the world that displays the lunar clock (a la turca, lunar reckoning). This method of measuring time counts hours up till the moment of (astronomical) sunset instead of midnight, as with contemporary time calculation, so the hands are in the 12 o’clock position at every sunset, when a new day also begins. Since the setting of the sun is uneven throughout the year, the time needs to be manually controlled and recalibrated every 2 to 3 days. The task of recalibrating the clock was assigned to the muvekit (timekeeper), who used astronomical instruments in a special room called the muvekithana to calculate the position of the sun. The current muvekit, Mensur Zlatar, who works at a nearby jewellery shop, has been assigned the responsibility since 1960s. The exact timing of the sunset used to be an important moment for locals to schedule their time of prayer, but the original religious purpose behind the lunar time has long since had its meaning forgotten, causing many to think that the clock is simply bad at proper time keeping. In 2006, the Commission for the Preservation of National Monuments proclaimed the clock tower as a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The tower cannot be visited, but it is possible to stand at its base by following the tunnel leading to Pekara Imaret right next to the tower. (updated Nov 2021)

• Tašlihan, Zelenih beretki (Latinska ćuprija). 24/7. Tašlihan served as one of the three stone caravanserais in Sarajevo (the others being the Morića Han and Kolobara Han), the name literally translates to ‘stone han’. It is believed that Tašlihan was the largest and most representative inn of its kind in the region, and built between 1540-1543 by craftsmen from Dubrovnik, who equipped the building with lead cupolas unlike the other two inns. It had a square foundation with sides of 47m, guest rooms on two levels, and a fountain in the courtyard. Several fires damaged the building, and the last one in 1879 completely destroyed it. The last remaining bits of rubble were removed in 1912, except for the shared wall with the bezestan. When archaeological research was carried out as part of the 1998 renovation of adjacent Hotel Europe, the remains of Tašlihan were uncovered in the hotel’s garden. The site was declared a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina by the Committee for the Preservation of National Monuments in 2004. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

• City Hall (Vijećnica), Obala Kulina Bana (Vijećnica). 10:00-20:00. Iconic pseudo-Moorish revival style building in Sarajevo, constructed between 1892 and 1894 under Austro-Hungarian occupation of the city. It was designed in 1891 by Czech architect Karel Pařík, but after disagreements with the ministry, it was Alexander Wittek who continued work on the project from 1892 to 1893 until he fell ill and died in Graz in 1894. The work was completed in 1894 by Ćiril Iveković, at a total cost of 984,000 crowns. The city hall was formally commissioned in 1896 by the City Authority which occupied the building until 1949, after it became the National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina. On 25 August 1992, the building was set ablaze by Serbian shelling at the beginning of the Siege of Sarajevo, causing its complete destruction. Most of the 1.5 million volumes in the library’s collection, of which 155,000 rare books and manuscripts were lost in the fire, despite civilian efforts to save them. Vijećnica was restored between 1996 and 2013 with financial aid from Austria, the European Commission and the city of Barcelona, at a total cost of 25 million KM. It is now a national monument, reopened since 2014, and designated as a cultural building for protocol events, concerts and exhibitions. 5 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• National Theater (Narodno pozorište), Obala Kulina bana 9 (Posta). The National Theater was founded in 1921, with an opening ceremony led by Branislav Nušić, then Head of the Art Department of the Ministry of Education. On November 9, 1946, the Sarajevo Opera House commenced its artistic activity with the premiere of B. Smetana’s The Bartered Bride. The ballet division was also founded in 1946, but the first independent performance, The Harvest by Papandopulo, was postponed until May 25, 1950. The current building, built in 1899 as a Country House (which was also known as the “Gentlemen’s Club” or “Clubhouse”), was designed by Czech phrasebook architect Karel Pařík, who contributed to over 160 buildings in and around Sarajevo. Due to its disposition and structure, one of the first city squares in Sarajevo was formed in front of the National Theatre. (updated Nov 2021)
• Officers’ Casino (Dom Oružanih snaga Bosne i Hercegovine), Zelenih Beretki 2 (Drvenija). The Officers’ Casino was built in 1881 according to Karl Pařík’s design. It was the core of Sarajevo’s social life in late 19th and early 20th century. The Army Hall of Bosnia and Herzegovina has been used by the military ever since its establishment for various purposes, such as art exhibitions and public lectures. It holds two grand halls for receptions and cultural events, and was the venue of the first military music concert in the city, held in 1881. (updated Nov 2021)

Museums

Sarajevo hosts numerous museums on a variety of topics. The museums can offer an air-conditioned refuge from heat during Sarajevo’s hot summers, or a place to warm up in the chilly winter months.

History and archeology

• Sarajevo City Museum (Brusa Bezistan), Abadžiluk 10 (Vijećnica, the entrance is on the eastern side of the block). M–Sa 10:00–16:00. The museum traces Sarajevo’s development from prehistorical times through the Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and modern times. This is a tiny museum but the cost of 3 KM is worth it. The entire time spent in here will probably be less than half an hour. The centerpiece of the museum is a model of the Old Town on the ground floor, made by Husein Karišik in the 1950s, depicting the era when Tašlihan was intact. On the second floor there is a famous blue garment (with golden threads) and some fine yataghan (short Turkish sword) on display among other items. 3 KM. 

• National Museum (Zemaljski muzej), Zmaja od Bosne 3 (Muzeji, in a large classical building across the road from the Holiday Inn). Tu-Su. Static displays of the natural and human history of Bosnia and Herzegovina – including an exhibition of traditional Turkish-style homes of Sarajevo prevalent in the nineteenth century, an extensive collection of insects and stuffed mammals and a large geology section with samples from around the world and a number of meteorites. The newly reopened museum also offers access to the botanical garden in the middle of the four main buildings: (1) archaeology from the Roman period up to the ninenteeth century, (2) Library, (3) Ethnology and (4) Natural sciences. 6 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

• Sarajevo Museum 1878-1918 (Muzej Sarajevo 1878-1918), Zelenih beretki 1 (Muzeji). M-Sa 10:00-16:00. The museum is dedicated to the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Sarajevo, which started with the Berlin Congress in 1878 and ended with World War I in 1918. The exhibition portrays life in the Austro-Hungarian era from different perspectives and themes, including the resistance against the occupation, lifestyle, culture, religion, industry and architecture. The time line ends with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie in front of the building. In the museums collection are numerous artifacts and photographs, along with wax statues of Franz Ferdinand and Sophie. (updated Nov 2021)
• Svrzo’s House (Svrzina kuća), Glođina ulica 8 (200 m north of the old town). Monday to Fridayr 10:00-16:00, Sa 10:00-15:00. Part of the Sarajevo City Museum, Svrzo’s House shows the living conditions of a Muslim family at the end of the 17th century. The house was built by the eminent Sarajevo family Glođo during the Ottoman occupation of the city, but ownership was transferred to the Svrzo family since the Glođo family had no male successors. The interior is divided in two sections: the public part (selamuk) and the family part (haremluk), which in turn is split in the traditionally separated living quarters for men, women and servants. Despite being constructed entirely out of wood, the building was surprisingly well preserved until the Siege of Sarajevo during which it sustained heavy damage. It was rebuilt after the siege and reopened in 1997, and renovated again in 2005. 3 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Gazi Husrev-Bey’s Library Museum (Muzej Gazi Husrev-begove biblioteke), Gazi Husrev-begova br. 46 (next to the Gazi-Husrev beg Mosque), , fax: +387 33 205 525. Monday to Fridayr 09:00-18:00, Sa closed, Su 09:00-16:00. The new Gazi Husrev-bey Library building also houses a museum with a collection of over 1200 items. This permanent exhibition displays Islamic calligraphy, time measuring tools and everyday life objects of Muslims. The price of a museum ticket is 3 KM. Apart from the museum the Gazi Husrev-bey Library holds around 100,000 units (manuscripts, printed books, periodicals, and various archive documents), but access to the Library funds and reading rooms is restricted to members only. The registration of any potential library user is made in a membership card valid for 12 months (30 KM, but also a daily membership (3 KM) is listed on the Service Price List). Entry to the library, exit, and membership identification are made at the Reception Desk of the Library. When entering a reading room, visitors must provide a membership card and an identification document that shall be returned to them upon exit. 3 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

War memorials

Scars from the Bosnian War can still be seen in many parts of the city, as bullet holes in walls or abandoned buildings. The unresolved conflict (see box The Yugoslav Wars) left traumatic memories, and museums and memorials associated with the Bosnian War are scattered around the city.

• Tunnel of Hope (Tunel Spasa), Ulica Tuneli 1, 71210 Ilidža (The museum is reachable by foot from the airport, or by tram from the Sarajevo city center, then bus 32a (Ilidža – Butmir). Get off at Donji Kotorac okretnica and turn left into Ulica Tuneli between the islamic cemeteries. The tunnel is in the garden of a house so don’t be worried if you think you’re headed into suburbia. Taxi fare from the Sarajevo city center (costs ~17 KM one way). Alternatively, the tourist office in the city Centre and Sarajevo Funky Tours offers tunnel tours for €12, with transportation to and from the city Centre included. After seeing the tunnel, they also take you on a drive through the part of the city that is in the Republika Srpska, which you can’t get to via the tram). Apr 2-Oct 31: daily 09:00-17:00; Nov 1-Mar 31: daily 09:00-16:00. The museum houses the Butmir entrance of the Sarajevo tunnel which, during the Siege of Sarajevo, served as the only connection of the isolated and besieged city to the outside world. The tunnel, dug by Bosnian forces in 1993, bypassed the UN blockade of the airport by tunneling under the runway over a distance of 340 meters. The tunnel allowed arms, munitions, oil and food to be transported into the city, and served as an evacuation route for officials and civilians. In a later stage of the war, a pipeline for oil and cables for electric power and telecommunications were also installed. Aside from a small segment of the tunnel which can be visited, the museum also offers a wealth of information on the Siege of Sarajevo, with numerous artifacts on display. Last entry 30 minutes before closing (i.e. 16:30). 5-10 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

• War Childhood Museum (Muzej ratnog djetinjstva), Logavina 32 (walk north from the bezestan until you see the museum sign to the right of the street). 09:00-20:00. Opened in 2017, the museum has personal belongings on display that illustrate the experience of a childhood during the Siege of Sarajevo. An audio guide reveals the stories behind the items, complementing the exhibits with additional pictures, audio and video. Video testimonies of inhabitants who grew up during the war are also shown throughout the visit. Only around 50 are in the permanent collection at any time, but the book War Childhood offers a compilation of them all. The book is for sale in the museum or can be consulted for free in the library section. 10 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

• Eternal Flame (Vječna vatra), Ferhadija (Banka, at the end of Marsala Tita street and beginning of Ferhadija street). 24/7. Memorial site designed by architect Juraj Neidhardt, honoring the victims of World War II with an eternal flame and inscription. The memorial was dedicated on 6 April 1946, the first anniversary of the liberation of Sarajevo from the four-year-long occupation by Nazi Germany and the fascist Independent State of Croatia. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

• Museum of crimes against humanity and genocide 1992-1995 (Muzej zločina protiv čovječnosti i genocida 1992-1995), Ferhadija 17 (Katedrala, or continue Ferhadija street from the Sacred Heart Cathedral in the direction of the Eternal flame, the museum entrance is a door to the left of a narrow alley). 09:00-22:00. Small museum about the genocide in the Bosnian Civil War of 1992-95. The humanitarian side of the conflict is portrayed with shocking pictures and film fragments of the raw truth of the darkest era in recent Bosnian history. Complementary to the 11/7/95 Gallery, which focuses on the Srebrenica Massacre in particular. Warning: the authentic photographs and video fragments of the genocide may be shocking to young visitors. Parental advisory and visitor discretion is advised. (updated Nov 2021)
• Gallery 11/07/95 (Galerija 11/07/95), Trg Fra Grge Martića 2 (Katedrala, next to the Sacred Heart Cathedral). 09:00-22:00. A small but compelling museum with a permanent exhibition about the Srebrenica Massacre, intended as a memorial to the 8372 people who perished during the events of July 1995. The events are unfolded from the perspective of investigative journalists visiting the site of the genocide. The audio guide (3 KM) is highly recommendable. Duration of the visit, with audio guide, is around 60 – 90 minutes. Warning: the authentic photographs and video fragments of the genocide may be shocking to young visitors. Parental advisory and visitor discretion is advised. 12 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

• Cemeteries. 24/7. With white marble grave stones for those who gave their lives at their 20s during the war, these cemeteries are a reminder of the tragedy that the city went through less than two decades ago. Several cemeteries can be found throughout the city. Free. (updated Nov 2021)
• Sniper Alley (Snajperska aleja), Zmaja od Bosne (Katedrala). 24/7. Sniper Alley was the informal name primarily for streets Zmaja od Bosne Street (Dragon of Bosnia Street) and Meša Selimović Boulevard, the main boulevard in Sarajevo which during the Bosnian War was lined with snipers’ posts, and became infamous as a dangerous place for civilians to traverse. The road connects the industrial part of the city (and further on, Sarajevo Airport) to the Old Town’s cultural and historic sites. The boulevard itself has many high-rise buildings giving sniper shooters extensive fields of fire. Signs reading “Pazi – Snajper!” (“Watch out – Sniper!”) became common. People would either run fast across the street or would wait for United Nations armored vehicles and walk behind them, using them as shields. According to data gathered in 1995, the snipers wounded 1,030 people and killed 225 — 60 of whom were children. Free. (updated Nov 2021)
• Memorial for the Children of Sarajevo, Maršala Tita (Park). 24/7. Monument erected in 2009 by sculptor Mensud Kečo and dedicated to the 1,600 children who were killed during the Siege of Sarajevo. The monument is located in Veliki Park, and consists of a glass sculpture constructed by stacking individually cut layers of green glass with a total height of 5 m, and is 1.7 m in diameter at its base. In 2010, the names of 521 children were inscribed in seven cylinders of anodised aluminum and placed on a concrete plinth around the sculpture. Free. (updated Nov 2021)
• Bosnian Historical Museum (Historijski muzej), Zmaja od Bosne 5 (Muzeji), , toll-free: + 387 33 210 416. 09:00 – 19:00. The museum was founded 70 years ago, but heavily damaged by shelling during the war and still in a perpetual state of disrepair. The exhibitions primarily focus on the war, but the presentation of the artifacts is outdated, and the museum lacks content overall. Some of the displays are worth a visit, at least if you are able to cope with the pictures of the maimed citizens after shelling of markets and photos of an ineffective UN providing armored vehicles citizens could wait behind before risking sniper fire to cross the street. However, the 11/7/95 Gallery and War Childhood Museum offer similar content for a much better value. 5 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Museum of the 105th Motorized Brigade (Muzej 105. motorizovane brigade), Grdonj. T-F 12:00-22:00; Saturday to Sunday 10:00-22:00. A memorial dedicated to the 105th Motorized Brigade of the Bosnian Army, which took part in the defense of Sarajevo during the 1992-95 siege of the city. Since 1993, over 7,000 members have passed through the brigade, of which 312 were killed in action and more than 2,000 were wounded. The museum is housed in a renovated fortified tower at Pointy Rock. (updated Nov 2021)

Art

• National Gallery (Umjetnička galerija), Zelenih beretki 8, , toll-free: +387 33 266-551. M-Sa 10:00-20:00. Established in 1946 after the Second World War, the National Gallery contains over 6000 pieces of art, with a focus on works of Bosnian interest. Interestingly, the gallery remained open and held exhibitions during the Siege of Sarajevo. It was closed in 2011 and reopened to the public in 2012. The permanent exhibition, Intimacies of Space, highlights Bosnian life from all angles. (updated Nov 2021)
• Museum of Literature & Performing Arts (Muzej književnosti i pozorišne umjetnosti), Sime Milutinovića Sarajlije 7. Monday to Friday 8:00-19:00; Sa 12:00-20:00. A small museum dedicated to the importance of literature and expressive arts in Sarajevo, with attention to prominent local writers and poets. Worth a visit to those interested in arts and literature. 3 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Modern Art Museum (Ars Aevi), Terezija bb (Skenderija). Museum for contemporary art. It was formed during the war as a “resistance of culture”. It has approximately 130 works by renowned world artists including Italian painter and art theorist Michelangelo Pistoletto, Greek artist Jannis Kounellis, German performance artist and sculptor Joseph Beuys, and American conceptual artist Joseph Kosuth. A new museum building, designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, is planned to be built in the upcoming years. (updated Nov 2021)
• Despić House (Despića kuća), Despićeva 2. Monday to Friday 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-15:00, Su closed. A dependency of the Sarajevo City Museum, constructed in several stages during different periods, the oldest parts dating back to the 17th century. The property belonged to the wealthy Serb Orthodox Christian Despić family, which donated the house to the city, which turned it into the Museum of Literature and the Performing Arts. It gained fame as the venue for the city’s first theater performances, so it may be regarded as the precursor of modern theater. Together with Svrzo’s House, the Despić House presents visitors with the lifestyle of wealthy merchant families that contributed to Sarajevo’s growth and prosperity. (updated Nov 2021)

• Academy of Fine Arts (Akademija scenskih umjentosti), Obala Maka Dizdara 3. The Academy of Performing Arts in Sarajevo is a faculty within the University of Sarajevo in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina, dedicated to the performing arts. It was officially opened in 1981 with the inaugural Department of Acting. In 2010, it was announced that the Sarajevo Canton and the Cantonal Development Institute would be funding the construction of a 10 million KM building and center for the Academy of Performing Arts, primarily because working conditions for students and faculty have been poor for the past decade. Construction on the new 4,600 m² (49,514 sq ft) center began in mid-2010 in the Centar Municipality. The current (old) building on the south bank of the Miljacka river was built in 1899 as an Evangelistic Church according to Karl Pařík’s design. (updated Nov 2021)

Festina Lente Bridge (Festina Lente Most), Obala Kulina bana (in front of the Academy). 24/7. A modern 38 m long pedestrian bridge over the Miljacka, featuring an unusual looping in the middle. There are seats in the looping, inviting travelers to sit down and enjoy the view. The concept of the bridge was created by three students from the Academy of Fine Arts: Adnan Alagic, Amila Hrustić and Bojana Kanlic. It opened officially on 22 August 2012. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

• Bosniak Institute (Bošnjački institut), Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 21. 08:00-16:30. The institute is a cultural center focusing on Bosniak culture. It was established by former Bosnian Vice President Adil Zulfikarpašić. The institute is housed in a renovated sixteenth century Turkish bath and includes a library and an art center. (updated Nov 2021)

Administrative buildings

• The Presidency Building (Zgradu Predsjedništva Bosne i Hercegovine), Maršala Tita 16. The Territorial Government Building (today, the official residence of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina) was designed by Josip Vancas and opened in March 1886. The building is modeled after Florentine Medici Ricardi Palace and reflects Florentine Early Renaissance style. It also houses the Constitutional Court of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Ustavni sud Bosne i Hercegovine) and the Archives of Bosnia and Herzegovina. (updated Nov 2021)
• The Parliamentary Assembly Building (Parlamentarna skupština Bosne i Hercegovine), Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1 (across the Sarajevo City Center), , fax: +387 33 233 480. The Building of the Bosnian Parliamentary Assembly was commenced back in 1954, designed by the architect Juraj Neidhard (who was a close associate of Le Corbusier), and finally built during 1978–1982. At the time it was finished, the building of the Assembly of SRBiH was the only building for that purpose in this part of Europe designed in a modern style. Also houses the Council of Ministers of Bosnia and Herzegovina Directorate for European Integration. The building became an icon of the Siege of Sarajevo after it was shelled by Serb artillery and photographed while on fire in 1992. (updated Nov 2021)
• Konak (Rezidencija “Konak”), Ulica Konak 5. The Konak was built as an Ottoman governors’ residence in 1868 in Late Baroque style during the rule of Topal Osman Pasha, an Ottoman vizier. It was built on a site of a former konak (an official residence in the Ottoman Empire). From 1878 to 1918 during the Austro-Hungarian occupation the Konak was the residence of the Habsburg family, and the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Josef resided in Konak during his visit in May, 1910. During the Yugoslav Republic (1918 to 1941) Konak hosted generals, governors, district-prefects and many politicians from around the world. Today, it is a state residence used by the members of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina. (updated Nov 2021)

• Central Post Office (BH Posta), Obala Kulina bana 8. 7:00-20:00. Austro-Hungarian era post office, designed by Czech architect Josip Vancas, and opened in 1913. It is a monumental building with tall doors leading visitors into a classic caged foyer in Secession style, with some decorative elements resembling the post office of Vienna. It was damaged in May 1992 during the Siege of Sarajevo, but restored in 2001 under supervision of architect Ferhat Mulabegović. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

Religious buildings

Islamic

• Bey’s Mosque (Begova dzamija), Saraci 8 (in the center of Bascarsija). 09:00-19:00. This medieval Ottoman architecture’s pearl is a lovely place to visit. It is open to Muslims and non-Muslims, but a visiting woman needs to cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque. It is one of the biggest mosques in the region and, for many, the most beautiful one. Bey’s mosque is a few hundreds years old and it is the greatest and most important project of the waqf of a Bey that is buried in the mosque’s courtyard. The clocktower next to the site (across Mudželiti Veliki street) shows 12:00 at sunset, and was used to synchronize the calls to prayer for all the city’s mosques. An entrance ticket to the mosque also gives access to the museum across the street. 5 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Emperor’s Mosque (Careva dzamija), Obala Isa-bega Ishakovića (on the south bank of the river). This is the oldest mosque in Sarajevo, the first one to be built in 1457 after the Ottomans occupied the city. It is the largest single-subdome mosque in the country, constructed under supervision of Isaković-Hranušić who dedicated it to sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. It was destroyed at the end of the 15th century but rebuilt in 1565 and dedicated this time to Suleyman the Magnificent. The mosque was damaged again in the Second World War and most recently during the 1992-95 Civil War, and restoration work on the painted decorations and interior are still pending. The adjacent cemetery hosts the graves of many former city viziers, mullahs, muftis, sheikhs an other prominent historical figures of Sarajevo. There is also a café inside the walls. The mosque is open both to Muslims and non-Muslims, but a visiting woman needs to cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque. (updated Nov 2021)
• Ali Pasha Mosque (Alipašina džamija), Hamze Hume. The mosque was constructed during 1560–61 as a vakıf (legacy or perpetual endowment) of Sofu Hadım Ali Pasha, the Ottoman former governor of the Bosnia Eyalet of the Ottoman Empire, after his death in September 1560. It was built according to the classical Istanbul architectural style. The dome covers the prayer area and three small domes cover the cloister. Because of its noble proportions it stands at the top of the scale of all sub-dome mosques that have been constructed in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the framework of the complex there is a domed burial site (turbe) with two sarcophagus of Avdo Sumbul (d.1915) and Behdžet Mutevelić (d.1915), Gajret activists who died in the dungeons of Arad. The mosque was heavily damaged by Serbian forces during the conflict of the early 1990s, especially the dome. The most recent renovation of the mosque occurred in 2004 and in January 2005, the Commission to Preserve National Monuments issued a decision to add the Ali Pasha Mosque to the list of National Monuments of Bosnia and Herzegovina. (updated Nov 2021)
• Ferhadija Mosque (Džamija Ferhadija), Ulica Zelenih Beretki (walk down Ferhadija street to the west). The mosque is named after Ferhad Bey Vukovic Desisalic, a Bosnian Sanyak Bey, who had the mosque built in 1562. Archaeological research into the painted decorations inside the mosque, carried out between 1964 and 1965, revealed 6 paint layers dating from different periods. The oldest and most valuable layer, found in the main dome, belongs to a group known as Rumi ornament, and dates back to the 16th century. Next to the mosque is a small cemetery, where members of the Janissary Order and of the old Sarajevan aristocratic families were buried. (updated Nov 2021)
• Tomb of the Seven Brothers (Jedileri), Bistrik 8 (take bus 103 to terminus Trg Austrije), , toll-free: +387 33 71 28 01. The history of the tomb dates back to the founding days of Sarajevo, and it is assumed that a certain sheik who had arrived with the army of Sultan Mehmed II el-Fatih was the first to be buried at this spot. The sheik built his house next to the current tomb, and in his will asked to be buried at the base of his garden, with the remaining area used as Muslim cemetery. Later on, two dervishes were also buried here, falsely accused of stealing gold from the Sarajevo treasury in 1494. Over two centuries later, 4 army commanders who were accused of collaboration with Prince Eugene of Savoy in his raid of the city, were also buried in the tomb after, according to the legend, a heavenly light descended upon their grave as evidence of their innocence. Thus, the tomb unites the 7 individuals, who are brothers by faith rather than brothers by birth. In 1815 a wall with seven windows was built around the tomb, and a room for a tomb keeper was added. Some of the property was demolished in 1937, but the wall and tomb still stand today. (updated Nov 2021)
• Hajji Sinan’s Tekke (Hadži Sinanova tekija), Ulica Alije Đerzeleza 1. Thursday: 19:00 – 22:00. The tekke was built by Hadzi Sinan Aga, a wealthy merchant from Sarajevo, or his son Mustafa-Pasha, who was a silahdar (an officer in charge of the weapons) at Murad IV Sultan’s Court, from 1638 to 1640. The tekke is comprised of several rooms: a room where zikr (the Dervish prayer) is performed, the sheik’s residence, musafirhana (a visitor’s inn) and an area for coffee making. In addition to regular Dervish rituals, the tekke gathered Sufis (mystics), who practiced tesavuf (mysticism) and studied works in Persian, Turkish and Arabic. Over a hundred inscriptions have been preserved at this site. Sinan Tekke’s greatest visual attraction is the calligraphy design on the wall of the courtyard, known as “Suleiman’s Seal”, the rosette design is nearly three meters wide with the words, “There is no God but God, and Muhammad is his Messenger”, painted 12 times in the fresco style. In 1768, the first asylum for psychiatric patients was opened in Hajji Sinan’s Tekke, marking the beginning of organized health care in BiH. (updated Nov 2021)
• Hanikah (Gazi Husrev-begova Hanikah), Ulica Sarači 49. Reservations are recommended. Ghazi Husrev-Bey’s Hanikah (khanaqah (خانقاه‎‎, “a Dervish tekke” in Persian; a Sufi Centre for the study of tasawwuf (Islamic mysticism) or a Sufi lodge in which dervishes both lived and received their theoretical education)) was built in 1531 as a rectangle-shaped building measuring 31.60 x 16.60 metres with 14 study rooms, a simahana (a room used for a Dervish religious ritual called zikr), mihrab (semicircular niche in the wall that indicates the qibla) and a small šadrvan fountain (شاذروان‎‎ shadirvan) in the middle of the inner courtyard. It was a beautiful atrium edifice with pillars and porticos, which was partly or completely destroyed or burned down, rebuilt and modified many times during its long history. In 1931, when a new Madrasah building was erected, it ceased to exist, and much of the building was demolished. The reconstruction of the Hanikah was completed in 1998, and the present-day edifice is mostly a replica of the original one, with the exception of an added plexiglass roof. (Also, there is no documentation on the chimneys, which were made similar to those on the Gazi Husrev-beg medresa (next door since 1537), and the tarih (chronogram) above the entrance door in addition to the stalactite decoration on the facade might not have been restored.) (updated Nov 2021)

Ottoman bridges

During Ottoman rule of Sarajevo, 13 bridges were built over the Miljacka River and Bosna River. Four stone bridges remain: the Latin Bridge, the Šeher-Čehajina Bridge, the Goat Bridge and the Roman Bridge.

• Latin Bridge (Latinska ćuprija), Obala Kulina Bana. 24/7. Archduke of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Franz Ferdinand, was assassinated on this bridge on 28 June 1914, sparking the beginning of World War I. A plaque commemorates the event. On the bridge was a memorial to the assassin Gavrilo Princip, but it was removed during the 1992-1995 War. Free. (updated Nov 2021)
• Šeher-Čehajina Bridge (Šeher-Ćehajina ćuprija) (between the City Hall and House of Spite). 24/7. Built in 1585/1586 and survived major damage from flooding in 1619, 1629, 1843 and 1880, but was repaired each time. When the Miljacka River was dammed in 1897 to regulate the water flow, the riverbed was altered and one of the original 5 arches of the bridge on the left bank was buried, a subtle change that can still be seen by observers with a keen eye. According to the legend, the city’s vizier Hadzi Husein had ordered to erect the bridge and embed a diamond in one of its pillars to finance future repairs. One night the diamond disappeared, and a poor young man confessed to have stolen it as a gift to a girl he fell in love with. Swayed by the love between the two and the return of the diamond, the man was released from prison, but the diamond was never embedded back into the bridge. In 2005, the Commission for the Preservation of National Monuments declared the bridge a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

• Roman Bridge (Rimski most) (on the Bosna half way between Ilidza and the Bosna spring). 24/7. Crossing the Bosna River at the historic Western entrance into the city. It is the only preserved stone bridge over the Bosna River, and considered one of the most authentic Ottoman bridges in the country. The bridge was constructed sometime between 1530 and 1550 using lime mortar and stones from ancient neolithic, Illyrian and Roman settlements in the bridge’s vicinity, most importantly the Roman village Aquae Sulphurae (Latin for sulfur waters) which served as the region’s cultural and administrative center. Numerous archaeological artifacts from that period (jewelry, coins, ceramics etc.) from the Roman period have been found around the bridge. It has seven semicircular arches and was built out of carved stone, with a total length of 52 m, width of 4.55 m and highest point of 4.5 m above the water level. Some of the stone tiles (kaldrma) have shallow engravings of Roman origin, from which the bridge derived its name. Free. (updated Nov 2021)
• Goat’s Bridge (Kozija ćuprija) (follow the Dariva scenic walkway East from the City Hall until the bridge). 24/7. Architecturally interesting bridge at the historic Eastern entrance into the city. It had an important ceremonial function, as it served as the place where each Ottoman vizier was welcomed by the previous vizier and citizens of Sarajevo. The bridge is constructed from white marble, has a single arc with two circular apertures, and is 42 m long and 4.75 m wide. The span of the main arc is 17.5 m. According to the legend, before the bridge’s existence, a poor shepherd noticed his goats sniffing on a shrub along the Miljacka River. Upon inspecting the shrub, he found a treasure with golden coins, which he used to finance his own education. After he became wealthy and influential, he had the bridge constructed at the shrub where his goats found the treasure, which gave the bridge its name. The truth in the legend was lost in history, but the bridge was almost certainly built between 1565 and 1579, a time when the road network underwent major infrastructure upgrades under reign of Mehmed-paša Sokolović. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

Vratnik

The Vratnik neighborhood was built in the 18th century, around the fortified Vratnik town. The walls, gates, and fortifications along the Vratnik perimeter can be visited.

• Yellow Fortress (Žuta tabija) (Walk through the war cemetery at the eastern end of Bascarsija. Another way is to follow the river upstream; where the road forks, take the right fork (the left fork goes into a short tunnel); follow it past Hotel Sara and up to the fortress.). Yellow Fortress (or Yellow Bastion) is a small cannon fortress at Jekovac. It was built close to the Jajce Barracks and the Jekovac water reservoir. It served as one of the defense points against the Austro-Hungarian troops in 1878. The fortress was damaged and rebuilt several times. The most recent renovation took place in 1998. Offers a great view over the city. Picnic tables with a scenic view are available free of charge, the café sells drinks but these are expensive so it is recommendable to bring your own beverages. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

• White Fortress (Bijela tabija) (follow the road uphill from the Yellow Fortress, take right at the intersection and climb the stairs at the end of the street, there take right until you end up at the fortifications). 24/7. White Fortress is a cannon bastion/fortress which also served to accommodate soldiers, and it is a part of the Old Town “Vratnik”. It is assumed to have been built at the site of a small medieval town “Hodidjed” (central fortress of the Vrhbosna Parish). The fortress overlooks Sarajevo with the stunning views of the eastern entrance to Sarajevo, the Miljacka River canyon and the city itself. The White Fortress was renovated and expanded several times. The present-day structure dates back to the Austro-Hungarian period. It served as a dungeon, barrack, munitions storage, a treasury, as well as the protection against the raid of Prince Eugene of Savoy in 1697, and defense fortress in battle against occupation by the Austro-Hungarian ruler in 1878. Local architect Zlatko Ugljen has developed a conceptual reconstruction project. According to his idea where the site would be used as a theater/music stage in the summer season. Some reports date the fortress to be built as far back as 1550. The ruins offer a magnificent view over the city, especially around sunrise or sunset, but are unsupervised and unlit. It is possible to reach the outer ridge by climbing through the “windows”, but there is no fence or other safety measures. When visiting at sunrise/sunset it is recommendable to bring a flashlight. Due to the hazards, not recommendable for young kids. Free. (updated Nov 2021)
• Visegrad Gate (Višegradska kapija (Zidine Vratničkog grada)). One of the three gate-towers in the Vratnik Old Town. It was built between 1727 and 1739, in limestone and in special Bosnian stone hreša with roof shingles. Traffic went east via the main road towards Visegrad (thus the name) and continued further to the east towards Istanbul. (updated Nov 2021)

• Museum of Alija Izetbegović (Muzej Alija Izetbegović), Kapi-kula Ploča, Kovači. Apr-Sep: Monday to Friday 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-15:00; Oct-Mar: Monday to Friday 10:00-16:00, Sa 10:00-15:00. A small museum housed in Vratnik’s old city gates, Ploča and Širokac, dedicated to Alija Izetbegović, the first president of the independent country of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It has a library of Alija’s work and a few personal items on display. The first floor takes visitors through Alija’s life, with exhibit panels and historical photographs, and awards and recognitions he received throughout his life and after his death. A passage between Ploča Gate and Širokac Gate is dedicated to Alija’s role as commander of the army. His tomb can be visited on the nearby cemetery. (updated Nov 2021)

• Martyrs’ Memorial Cemetery Kovači (Sehidsko mezarje Kovaci), Sirokac (follow Kovači street uphill from Sebilj). Cemetery with victims of the 1992-95 Civil War, and mostly known for the tomb of Alija Izetbegović, the first president of the independent Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina (1992-1996) after which he became the president of Bosnia and Herzegovina and served until 2003. His tomb, central in the cemetery, consists of a dome suspended on 8 marble pillars, and is during the day guarded ceremonially by members of the army, as a memorial to his role of commander of the army. Free. (updated Nov 2021)
• Jajce Barracks (Jajce kasarna), Bijela česma (walk uphill from the Yellow Fortress and take the stairs to the right before Haris Youth Hostel). A military barracks built in 1914 for the needs of the Austro-Hungarian army, previously known as the Eugen of Savoy barracks. The name Jajce dates from 1915 when the Austro-Hungarian military hospital was moved to the barracks. The building was heavily damaged during the 1992-95 Civil War and has not been restored yet, much of it lies in ruins. It is a popular attraction for urban explorers. (updated Nov 2021)

Olympics

Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympic Games, officially the XIV Olympic Winter Games. It was the first Winter Olympics held in a socialist state, and the second overall Olympic Games in a socialist state after the 1980 Summer Olympics in Moscow. The infrastructure has suffered from lack of funding, low public interest, and damage from the 1992-95 Civil War.

• Olympic Museum (Olimpijski muzej), Alipašina bb. Monday to Friday 09:00-17:00. A museum aimed at the preservation of the memories of the organization of the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo. From 1984 to 1992, the museum was located in the city center, in a mansion designed by Czech architect Karl Paržik for Nikola Mandić, former Sarajevo citizen and later president of the Independent State of Croatia during the Nazi occupation in the Second World War. Declared an enemy of the state at the end of the war, Nikola Mandić lost his life and property, and the mansion was donated to the museum by the Sarajevo city council. At the start of the 1992-95 Civil War, the building was shelled by Serb forces and damaged beyond repair. A significant part of the museums collection went up in flames. The remaining collection was salvaged and transferred to the Zetra Olmypic Complex, and in 2004 the new museum at its current location was opened to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the 1984 Olympic Games. Many items have been donated to the museum for this occasion, and the extensive collection on display is a result of tedious restoration efforts. (updated Nov 2021)
• Skenderija, Terezija BB (take tram 6 until Skenderija terminus), , toll-free: +387 33 211-016. Tito-era cultural and sports center on the south bank of the river, constructed in 1969 and opened with the premiere of the film Battle of Neretva. It was later expanded for the 1984 Winter Olympic Games, and features a market and shopping mall. Because of its concrete construction, it only sustained minor damage during the war, but gradually decayed afterwards due to neglect. In February 2012, after a record snowfall in Sarajevo, the roof of one of the halls collapsed under the snow pressure, which was estimated to be around 160 kg/m². The building was subsequently restored by the city and returned to service, and receives 500,000 visitors per year. (updated Nov 2021)

• Trebevic Bobsled Track, Apelova Cesta (You can walk here [6 km from center, but very steep slope] or ask a taxi to drop you off at Hotel Pino [8 km from center, pay approximately 12–15 KM] then cross the road from the hotel.). Place where bobsled competition takes place during 1984 Olympic Games. Partially destroyed during war. Amazing place for people who like to see ruins. This is also great place for risk takers: you can rent a bike in city and ride down in concrete bobsled path (or hike down if you don’t have a bike). (updated Nov 2021)
• Ski Station (Close to beginning of Trebevic bobsled track). Destroyed during the War, the top station of the former ski lift offers a great view point over the whole city. The prospect of rebuilding the cable car has been promised by politicians for years, but hasn’t happened yet. (updated Oct 2015)

Do

The monthly Sarajevo city guide “Sarajevo Navigator” seems to be available also online (read-only).

• Avaz Twist Tower, Tesanjska 24a (Željeznička stanica, next to the railway station). 07:00-22:00. The tallest building in the former Yugoslavia, towering 172 meter above the city, and in the top 11 most significant twist towers in the world. Construction started in 2006 and finished in 2008. The tower features a bar/restaurant at level 35, and an observation deck with outside walkway at level 36, offering a magnificent view over the city, with views as far as the airport if weather permits. To reach the bar/restaurant and observation deck, take the elevator around the corner in the entrance hall and get to level 35 (from where stairs lead to the observation deck). Access to the bar/restaurant is free, but access to the observation deck requires an entrance fee of 1 KM. The access gate only accepts coins of 1 or 2 KM, but bills can be exchanged at the bar on level 35. 1 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Fox in a Box, Sime Milutinovica 15/I (Latinska ćuprija). 09:30-22:30. Classic and only escape room games in Sarajevo, centering around locks and codes, offering 2 rooms: Mr. Fox’s Secret Study and The Bank Job. Located on walking distance from the historic city center. 60 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
  • Mr. Fox’s Secret Study places players in the role of secret agents in learning, who, as a final assignment of their training, need to escape from Mr. Fox’s office by solving a series of riddles.
  • The Bank Job tasks players in the role of thieves with stealing valuable diamonds from the safe of a bank with a crooked director. The power to the bank has been cut for an hour, and the game will take place in the dark with the aid of a flashlight.
• Skakavac Waterfall (Vodopad Skakavac). Waterfall located 12 km north of Sarajevo, above the Nahorevo Village. With its 98 m in height, it is the second tallest waterfall in Europe, after the Vinnufossen waterfall in Sunndal, Norway. Located in an area of exceptional natural beauty, surrounded by lush forests of spruce, beech, and fir forests, the waterfall is worth a day trip is weather allows it. A wooden pedestrian bridge takes visitors under the waterfall. (updated Nov 2021)
• Olympic Stadium (Željezničar Football Club), Olimpijski stadion Asim Ferhatović – Hase (Sarajevo Football Club). Although the football quality is low, it is interesting to follow a match in a stadium which hosted the opening ceremony of 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympic Games peacefully just a few years before war broke out. (updated Nov 2021)
• Mehndi, Halači (walk from Sebilj to the river). 10:00 – 20:00. A henna tattoo shop using sticker stencils and natural henna paint to apply tattoos in 5 to 10 minutes. Needs ca. 20 minutes to dry, then the excess can be washed of in the Sebilj. Lasts approximately 2 – 3 days. 10 – 20 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Stadium Grbavica, Zvornička 27. FK Željezničar Sarajevo (fudbalski klub Željezničar) (updated Nov 2021)

• Dariva Canyon, Dariva (west of Goat’s Bridge). 24/7. An 8 km long promenade from the historic center of Sarajevo to the Goat’s Bridge, following the canyon of the Miljacka. The promenade is very picturesque, and the pedestrian-only route offers magnificent natural views which have been appreciated since the Austro-Hungarians built a railroad through the Miljacka valley. There are 150 linden trees lining the promenade, planted by diplomats residing in Sarajevo at the invitation of the mayor. Some of the trees still have plaques bearing the names of those who planted them. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

Recreation parks

• Spring of the Bosna River (Vrelo Bosne), Ilidža (25-minute drive west of Old Town, 3 km beyond the suburb of Ilidža). 08:00-23:00. The beginning of the river Bosna, where the pure and ice cold water surges out of the mountains. Here you can walk in large, well-kept park, picnic, and spend the whole day without getting bored. May 1 festival is held here. 2 KM park admission, 2 KM/hour parking, 30 KM for a horse-and-carriage ride. (updated Nov 2021)

• Sarajevo Zoo (Pionirska dolina), Patriotske lige 58, , fax: +387 33 560 561. 08:00-21:15. A small zoo and recreation park at the outskirts of Sarajevo, primarily aimed at children. It is the oldest zoo in Bosnia and Herzegovina, during the Austro-Hungarian period located in Ilidza but later moved to its current location. There are 57 species of animals from all over the world on display, including lions which have been donated by the zoo of Sofia in 2013. A little train and several other attractions and playgrounds are available for the entertainment of kids, some at an extra fee. 3 KM for adults, 2 KM for kids. (updated Nov 2021)

• Sunnyland, Miljevići bb (take bus 59a from Latinska ćuprija terminal to Hambina carina, then walk up the hill). 09:00 – 22:00. A newly constructed bobsleigh track on Mt. Trebevic overlooking Sarajevo, and adjacent restaurants and bars selling mediocre food and drinks. Excellent entertainment for kids, with indoor playgrounds and facilities, but not very interesting to adults. 5 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

Events

Sarajevo is a vibrant city that lives all year long. Sonar compiles the city’s regular calendar of events to make it easier to plan your visit.

• Sarajevo Film Festival, Branilaca Sarajeva 24 (Bosanski Kulturni Centar), , fax: +387 33 263 381. Annually in July or August. One of the best film festivals in Europe and the largest of its kind in Southeastern Europe. (updated Nov 2021)
• MESS: International Theater Festival (Internacionalni Teatarski Festival), Maršala Tita 54, , fax: + 387 33 211 972. Annually in October. Festival for expressive arts, with special attention to youth and alternative subjects. Held in Kamerni teatar. (updated Nov 2021)
• Sarajevo Jazz Festival, La Benevolencija 14, , fax: + 387 33 550 481. First week of November. A very eclectic festival, and the largest of its kind in the Balkans. 
• Sarajevo Winter International Festival (Sarajevska zima), Maršala Tita 9a/V, , fax: + 387 33 266 621. February – March annually. Winter counterpart of the Film Festival, with room for music, visual arts, film and video, performing arts and literature. A special program for children is available. (updated Nov 2021)
• Nights of Baščaršija (Baščaršijske noći), Cemalusa 1/2, , fax: + 387 33 207 972. During July the old part of the Sarajevo city becomes a place of various activities: theatre performances, classic and rock music concerts and folklore dances. (updated Nov 2021)
• Sarajevo International Guitar Festival, Vijećnica, Obala Kulina bana. Annually in April. International Guitar Festival gathers some of the most eminent guitar players, who present their artistic and educational programs through concerts, workshops and competitions. €30-€75. (updated Nov 2021)

Winter sports

Sarajevo offers excellent possibilities for winter sports, with two nearby Olympic grade mountains

• Bjelašnica. 09:00 – 16:00. Ski resort about 35 km (1 hour drive) away from Sarajevo, with 14 km slopes in all difficulty levels. A day pass costs 25 KM for children and 35 KM for adults. Night skiing is also possible in season, for an additional 18 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

• Jahorina. Roughly as far away from Sarajevo as Bjelašnica, the ski resort of Jahorina is on the border of the Bosnia and Herzegovina and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the town itself on the Republika Srpska side of the mountain. The resort offers 25 km of slopes in all difficulty levels and 11 lifts, and gained fame as the location for the Women’s Alpine competitions in the 1984 Olympic Games. A day ticket costs 29 KM for children and 39 KM for adults. (updated Nov 2021).

Water sports

From May to August, when temperatures in Sarajevo peak, there is no better way to cool down than the crystal clear 12°C cool water of the Neretva. The Neretva is a white water river in Herzegovina, and one of the most popular destinations for rafting. It offers exciting rapids, canyons, clean and fresh drinkable water, untouched nature, great beaches, fish, birds, and a lot of adrenaline of course. There are several possibilities for rafting excursions from Sarajevo, including shuttle transfer to/from the starting point in Konjic. Don’t forget to inquire about combining a rafting excursion with a visit to Tito’s bunker along the Neretva, Bosnia’s largest Cold War era facility recently opened to visitors.

• SarajevoFunkyTours, Besarina čikma 5. 08:00-18:00. Neretva white water rafting day begins with departure from Sarajevo at 09:00, with arrival to Konjic around 10:00. From there, the journey heads towards the rafting starting point, located around 45 min uphill drive. On the way there views over Boračko Lake and upper flow of Neretva river and canyon are simply outstanding. There is time for a break with swimming, sun-bathing, diving or other activities. The tour will end a few kilometers away from Konjic, where transport will wait to take you to the local way made lunch/dinner. Departure to Sarajevo around 17:00, arrival in Sarajevo at 18:00. (updated Nov 2021)
• Meet Bosnia Travel, Velika Avlija Br. 14, , toll-free: +387 60 33 47 729. 9:00-17:00. Organized rafting excursion on the Neretva river. Includes transport with a shuttle bus from Sarajevo to Konjic (departure at 08:00), base station and uphill transfer, 20 km rafting (ca. 3 – 4 hours), afternoon lunch in Konjic, and return to Sarajevo. Rental of a neoprene wet suit, safety gear and all drinks are included. The Neretva is wildest at the beginning of the season (May) and calmest at the end of summer (August). 100 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Sarajevo Insider, Zelenih beretki 30, , toll-free: +387 33 53 43 53. Saturday to Sunday 09:00-14:00, Monday to Friday 9:00-17:00. Full day rafting excursion on the Neretva including transport and guide. Only groups with a minimum of 6 people are accepted. Start at 08:00, reservation required at least 24h in advance. 100 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

When temperatures rise in the city, the aqua park of Ilidza may offer refreshment.

• Ilidza Thermal Riviera (Termalna rivijera Ilidža), Butmirska Cesta 18, 71211 Ilidza (behind the airport, 5 minutes walk from Ilidza tram station). 9:00-22:00. Water park with several indoor and outdoor swimming pools, wave pool, massage amenities, and water slides. Slightly outdated infrastructure, but the natural sulfur rich water makes up for it on hot summer days. Sauna and fitness center available at the adjunct Hotel Hills. 7 KM on week days, 9 KM during the weekend, children pay 2 KM less, wellness extra 15 KM, fitness extra 10 KM, wellness & fitness combo extra 20 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

• Isa-begov Hamam, Bistrik 1 (Next to Emperor’s Mosque, across the Latin Bridge). Monday to Friday 10:00-13:30 for men, 14:00-18:00 for women, Sa 09:00-19:00 for women, Su 09:00-19:00 for men. Renovated hamam in the Isa-begov Hotel with traditional ottoman steam room, water pool and massage facilities. 20 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

Buy

It is possible to pay with credit cards in most shopping centers and in nearly all better restaurants. This is not the case, however, in most cafés, clubs and shops that sell handicrafts and souvenirs in the old part of the city, where even the “too large” notes might not get easily accepted (so it’s handy to have the smallest notes (10s and 20s) stashed, too).

• Markale Market (Gradska Tržnica) (it is a big yellow building; the main entrance is on Ferhadija and backs onto Mula Mustafe Baseskije where there is a plaque on the wall with victims’ names on it). 07:00­–17:00. The City Market Place Markthalle was designed by August Butsch in 1894 in the Neo-Renaissance style and was opened in 1895. Marked the start of NATO intervention and thereby end of the war after a bombing, which took the life of some 40 people. Markale was bombed two times: first in Feb 1994 (which is important in terms of casualties) and second in August 1995 (which initiated NATO military intervention, and with it, the beginning of the end of the war). Today the market is repaired and home to local meat, cheese, and vegetable merchants. Free. (updated Nov 2021)

Baščaršija district

Baščaršija has plenty of carpets and local copperware on sale. Over a century ago, each street in this area hawked a specific ware: for example, one street had all the coppersmiths, shoes were on another, jewelry on yet another. While in Baščaršija, don’t miss the underground souk that stretches along the west side of Gazi Husrev-begova street (open 08:00–20:00).

• Bedesten (Gazi-Husrev Beg’s Bezistan), Gazi Husrev-begova. M-Sa 08:00-20:00, Su 10:00-19:00. A covered market for haberdashery and craftsmanship, built during the Ottoman Empire period, with a design based on the design of the mosques. The bedesten serves as the central building in the historic commercial part of the city, and has its origins in the Greco-Roman basilica or kaiserion which served a similar purpose. During Ottoman times, the bedesten was of such economic importance that cities were classified under two categories: those with a bedesten, and those without. (updated Nov 2021)
• Isfahan Gallery, Saraći 77 (inside Morića Inn), , ✉ info@isfahans.com. Traditional Persian carpet store inside the Morića Inn. The handcrafted carpets are pricey, but the setting inside the reconstructed inn is worth a visit. (updated Nov 2021)
• Sahinpasic, 38d Titova. Has a solid collection of historical literature. 
• Baklava Shop Sarajevo, Ćurčiluk Veliki 56 (on the northern side of Brusa Bezistan). Authentic baklava. A wide selection of baklava in many flavors (walnut, almond, hazelnut, pistachio, etc.), where the baklavas containing orah (walnut) are considered to be the most traditional ones. (updated Nov 2021)
• Kazandžiluk Street. The street is named after Sarajevo’s master coppersmiths, featuring shops such as Sakib Baščaušević and Aganovic. (updated Nov 2021)

Shopping malls

Sarajevo offers numerous shopping malls, the most notable being the Sarajevo City Center in the commercial district. Most shopping malls in Sarajevo have been newly constructed or renovated, and offer a modern shopping experience to those who can stand the annoying pop music they play all day long.

• Sarajevo City Center, Vrbanja 1. 10:00-22:00. Landmark in the commercial district, and located centrally in Sarajevo along the boulevard connecting the airport with the historic center of the city. Houses the largest shopping center in the city, with 160 stores, countless restaurants and bars, and a luxury hotel. (updated Nov 2021)
• Alta Shopping Center, Franca Lehara 2 (accross the street from the Sarajevo City Center). M-Sa 09:00-22:00, Su 10:00-20:00. Shopping center in the commercial district of the city, with 70 stores. Famous for the Lego store inside. (updated Nov 2021)
• BBI Center, Trg djece Sarajeva 1 (across the street from Veliki Park). M-Sa 08:00-22:00, Su 08:00-22:00. Second largest shopping center of Sarajevo, after the City Center, founded in 2010, with 125 stores. It won the ICSC European Shopping Centre Awards in 2011. (updated Nov 2021)
• Bosmal City Center, Milana Preloga 12A. Shopping center on the south bank of the river, opened in 2009, with 50 stores. (updated Nov 2021)
• Importanne Center, Zmaja od Bosne 7. 07:00-23:00. Smaller shopping mall opened in 2010 with around 35 stores. (updated Nov 2021)
• Mercator, Ložionička 16. One of the oldest shopping malls in Sarajevo, opened in 2000, with roughly 35 stores. (updated Nov 2021)
• Grand Centar Ilidža, Butmirska cesta 14 (tram 3 direction Ilidža). M-Sa 08:00-22:00; Su 08:00-21:00. Ilidža shopping center, with 33 stores. (updated Nov 2021)

Money exchange

The local currency is konvertibilna marka (KM, Convertible Mark (international abbreviation BAM), which is fixed at €1 = 1.95583 KM (~1 KM = €0.51)), and is used throughout the country. Many restaurants in Sarajevo, in particular those in the tourist districts, may also accept euros at €1 = 2 KM. The somewhat weird fixed exchange rate is due to the Convertible Mark being pegged 1:1 to the erstwhile Deutsche Mark which has since been replaced with the Euro at the aforementioned exchange rate. In addition to banks, money can be exchanged at any post office or currency exchange office/booth, both of which are scattered throughout the city (one such currency exchange booth is located on the east side of the Baščaršija Square (as of Nov 2017)). The majority of exchange offices in Sarajevo work from 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m., while most banks are open from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. on weekdays and from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. on Saturdays.

• Privredna banka Sarajevo (BOR Bank dd Sarajevo), Obala Kulina Bana 18, , fax: +387 33 278 550. The bank can perform exchange for the following 11 currencies: AUD, CAD, CHF, DKK, EUR, GBP, HRK, NOK, SEK, TRY and USD. (updated Nov 2021)
• ProCredit Bank Head Office (ProCredit Bank d.d. Sarajevo), Franca Lehara bb, , fax: +387 33 250 971. BAM/EUR conversion fee 0.2 % (updated Nov 2021)
• ProCredit Bank Old Town (ProCredit Bank d.d. Sarajevo), Zelenih beretki 8. BAM/EUR conversion fee 0.2 % (updated Nov 2021)
• Sparkasse Bank, Zmaja od Bosne 7 (at the Importanne Shopping Center), , fax: +387 33 280 230. Services for private customers include money exchange and money transfering. (updated Nov 2021)
• Ziraat Bank (ZiraatBank BH d.d.), Zmaja od Bosne 47c, , fax: +387 33 525 712. Their exchange rate list contains AUD, CAD, CHF, CNY, CZK, DKK, EUR, GBP, HRK, HUF, JPY, NOK, RSD, RUB, SEK, TRY and USD. (updated Nov 2021)

Eat

It is said in Bosnia that some people eat to be able to drink, others eat to be able to live and work, but true Bosnians work and live to eat. A lot of attention is devoted to the preparation and consumption of food in Sarajevo. Gastronomy in the city was developed under Eastern and Western influences, and Bosnian cuisine focuses on local produce like meat, vegetables, fruits and dairy products. For information on typical Bosnian foods, see Bosnia#Eat.

This page uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
Budget	< 12 KM
Mid-range	12 – 20 KM
Splurge	> 20 KM

Budget

Sarajevo has countless shops selling burek (meat pie, sold in layers by weight or by piece), ćevapi, and pizza. Pita (burek, sirnica, krompirusa, tikvenica, zeljanica etc.) is a filo type pasty pie generally offered in several varieties: meat (meso), cheese (sirnica, Bosnian cheese called “young cheese” similar to ricotta and never aged), cheese and spinach (zeljanica), pumpkin (tikvenica), and spicy potato (krompirusa). It is usually served with a traditional yogurt sauce that resembles sour cream. Most ćevapi places do not serve alcohol.

• Ascinica ASDž, Ćurčiluk mali 3 in Bascarsija. 08:00–19:00. When you get sick of greasy meats, ASDž serves Bosnian-home-cooking, vegetable-centered dishes (but don’t expect 100% vegetarian, as many are still flavored with a bit of meat). Order cafeteria-style at the counter: you pay by the plate and can mix-and-match different foods into the same dish. (updated Nov 2021)
• Buregdžinica Bosna, Bravadžiluk 11. A pita & burek restaurant. (updated Nov 2021)
• Cakum Pakum, Kaptol 10. A small restaurant with great savory pancakes (crepes). (updated Nov 2021)
• Mr Gurman, Kolodvorska (pofalici). Fast food (updated Nov 2021)
• Petica, Bravadžiluk 29, in Bascarsija. 08:00–23:00. A popular but spacious restuarant serving the freshest all-beef ćevapi and creamiest kajmak in Bascarsija. The waitresses wear traditional Bosnian dresses. 3.50 KM for ćevapi. (updated Nov 2021)
• Pizzeria Ago, Mula Mustafe Baseskije 17. 08:00-23:00. Good value pizzas, and pancakes for dessert at only 1 KM, which are a boon for the budget travellers with a sweet tooth. (updated Nov 2021)
• Pizzeria Maslina, Trg Heroja 10. Affordable prices with a diversity of cuisines, from Italian to Bosnian traditional food. (updated Nov 2021)
• Pizzeria Terrazza, Strossmayerova 8. Pizzas and Bosnian sandwiches (updated Nov 2021)

Mid-range

• Bambus, #32, Ferhadija bb 557-190. An amazing jewel of a restaurant in the central shopping district. You have to go down a small staircase and push a button to be buzzed in to the restaurant but once you are there you will be happy you took the time to find it. It is very classy, quiet, clean, English menu and the waiters speak English. Very good food at good prices. The food is cooked with pride and for the prices charged, it really is a good deal. 
• Cafe & restoran Ahar, Zmaja od Bosne 13. Nice and quiet restaurant with European-Italian menu and a brick oven. (updated Nov 2021)
• Cappuccino, Grbavica (near river Miljacka in green area.). Delicious Bosnian meals and the best pasta and pizza in the region. 
• Hacienda, Bazardzani 3. 10:00-03:00. Mexican food, cocktails. Large portions with very fresh ingredients and a pleasant atmosphere. DJs are playing House and Techno Music. Comparing to some other similar places, Hacienda is more expensive but still with good atmosphere. 8-12 KM for a main course. 

• House of Spite (Inat Kuca), Veliki Alifakovac 1 (from opposite city hall, cross the bridge and take a left), , toll-free: +061 338 177. 11:00-23:00. The history of this restaurant dates back to the Austro-Hungarian occupation, when Sarajevo underwent large scale infrastructure projects which resulted in the post office, the National Museum, the Faculty of Law, and many others. When the City Hall was to be constructed however, the Austro-Hungarians faced the stubbornness of an old Bosnian man named Benderija who lived in a hourse in that location. He refused to have his house demolished for the construction of the City Hall, and only after long negotiations he agreed to give up his property under 2 conditions: he wanted a bag of golden coins as compensation, and the house had to be moved brick by brick to the other side of the river. Since then, the building is known as the house of spite, and a symbol of Bosnian stubbornness and resistance against the government. In 1997, the house was converted to a lovely restaurant selling hearty stew-like meals and Bosnian specialties. A terrace offers a view over the river and the Sarajevo City Hall which it replaces. The house is decorated in oriental style, and worth visiting for the ambient alone. 6-20 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Karuzo, Dženetića Čikma bb. 12:00-15:00 and 18:00-23:00. While it doesn’t serve traditional Bosnian food, this restaurant features a vegetarian/fish based menu, with a mostly Italian influence (although sushi is also available). The pasta dishes are also highly recommended. It’s a very intimate restaurant seating only 18 at a time, the chef takes your order prepares the food and serves it himself. Do be aware that you probably do need to have a good deal of time to spare – it can take a couple of hours before you leave. 
• Mrkva, Bravadžiluk 13. 08:30-23:00. Traditional Bosnian food, a local favorite. A small chain with 5 restaurants spread out over the Sarajevo metropolitan area. 
• Paper Moon, Hamdije Čemerlica 45. A combination of dishes of the international cuisine and a traditional clay oven. (updated Nov 2021)
• Park Princeva (مطعم الملوك), Iza Hrida br. 7, , toll-free: +387 33 532 403. 08:00-23:00. Slightly more expensive than Inat Kuca, also serving Bosnian food. Located on one of the hills of the city, you have fantastic view, especially around sunset, when you can hear the prayers from the mosques around the valley. 
• Restoran “Apetit”, Gazi Husrev begova 61. An “open kitchen” and a daily menu prepared from selected fresh food; meat dishes, fish dishes, risottos, pastas, imaginative salads, fragrant woks and delicious sweet pleasures. Also dishes for vegans, vegetarians and gluten-free offerings. (updated Nov 2021)
• Trattoria Uno, Zmaja od Bosne 45. A small Italian restaurant. The grilled vegetables as an appetizer are worth trying. (updated Nov 2021)
• Zeljo (Ćevabdžinica Željo), Kundurdžiluk 19. 08:00-23:00. Traditional Bosnian food, a local favorite. A small chain with 4 different locations spread over the city. A good venue to visit with kids. 

Splurge

• Bosnian House (Bosanska Kuca), Bravadziluk 3, Bascarsija. 24/7. Steak house. Seats inside and out in the heart of the Old Town with a wide range of traditional Bosnian food at reasonable prices. You can sit outside against the warm wall of the oven if it’s chilly. Some of the waiters are fairly rude and try to persuade guests into ordering too many dishes, warning that the servings are small, which isn’t the case. Muckalica, a veal broth, is delicious and good value at 10KM. 
• Dveri, Prote Bakovića 12. 09:00-23:00. Homestyle restaurant in heart of old Sarajevo. Very cozy feel, with strands of garlic, lots of delicious warm bread, hearty soups, meats, etc. (updated Nov 2021)
• Moja Mala Kuhinja, Tina Ujevića 13. 10:00-23:00. A small restaurant owned by Bosnian celebrity Chef Muamer Kurtagic who has hosted cooking shows on national TV stations. The idea is that the whole cooking process is open for public, and customers can enjoy the cooking the food whilst also being educated. His menu changes daily according to the availability of the ingredients. Most dishes prepared by the chef are inspired by some of the best restaurant in Germany where he worked for a number of years. The restaurant can only serve around 15 guests at a time. 
• Restaurant Kibe, Vrbanjuša 164. Offering stunning stunning views on Sarajevo, Kibe Mahala offers a selection of the finest Bosnian national dishes, whereof the famous spit-roasted lamb, and a wide assortment of wines from Bosnia and Herzegovina and the region. (updated Nov 2021)
• Restaurant Vinoteka, Skenderija 12 (Near the Skenderija cultural and sports center / hall “Mirza Delibasic”). Restaurant Vinoteka offers a wide selection of dishes from international cuisine recipe and a large selection of domestic and foreign wines. There is a guarded parking lot next door to the restaurant. (updated Nov 2021)
• Restoran Brajlovic, Samira Ćatovića Kobre 6, Ilidža. 07:00-23:00. At the water front of the Zeljeznica, Brajlovic offers an up scale selection of Bosnian specialties. Their cevapcici is widely known to attract tourists and locals alike. (updated Nov 2021)

Sarajevo has vibrant night life with a plenty small thematic bars. Clubs are usually opened until early morning. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are hot days to hang out despite the rest of the week offers quite good night life. There are probably over 100 cafés in the city, centered in the old town, but a clear distinction is made whether the traditional Bosnian coffee is served or not.

Cafes

• Bosanska kafana “Index”, Bascarsija 12 (Kazandziluk). Bosnian coffee (updated Nov 2021)
• Cafe Slastičarna “Palma”, Porodice Ribar br.5. Coffee and pastry shop, located in Sarajevo in part of town called Hrasno, started working back in 1970. In 1985 “Palma” received the CD -Diplomatic Consular Code. (updated Nov 2021)
• Caffe Kamarija – Point of view, Pod bedemom bb. Good service and a view on the Sarajevo cityscape (the treetops might restrict the view partially, though). For photos there might be nicer spots up on the road (~100 m). (updated Nov 2021)
• Connectum/Klub Knjige, Veliki Curciluk 27. Part of a bookstore. 
• Imperijal cafe slasticarna, Ulica Maršala Tita 54. Located in the ground floor of HKD Napredak Palace (Croatian Cultural Association). The building, which was built in 1913 according to the design of Dioniz Sukno in Secessionist style, has had many occupants, such as a cinema, a theatre and a gallery, and was the first city building to have an elevator. (updated Nov 2021)
• Ministry of Ćejf, Kovači 26. Great espresso drinks and well trained baristas. They also have karak and good cakes. (updated Nov 2021)
• Miris Dunja, Ulica Čizmedžiluk 9. Coffee, Bosnian coffee and juices. On a regular day the Bosnian coffee served is usually very good, and on a good day the Bosnian coffee may truly be extraordinary exceptional. Bosnian coffee: 2 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Mrvica, Paromlinska 58h (located in the Novo Sarajevo residency area, near “Vjetrenjača” (Windmill)). Coffee, brunch or even lunch (updated Nov 2021)
• Mrvica Old Town, Ulica Jelića 5 (near the Sacred Heart Cathedral “Katedrala Srca Isusova”). Coffee and different types of bakery and desserts. Opened ca. 2017. No Bosnian coffee served, only “modern” coffee styles. (updated Nov 2021)
• Opera Bar/Café, B Sarajeva 25 (opposite the city’s Opera house). 07:00-12:00. Fast WiFi connection, but the waitstaff are often unfriendly and inattentive. It attracts the acting and musical community among the regulars, though this isn’t an exclusive kind of place. A bit smoky. Espresso: 2 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

Where to stay in Sarajevo

Budget

If you arrive late at night, the weather is right and you have a tent with you, you can camp quite undisturbedly in the park next to the Miljacka river. Chances are that there already some more tents put up. Follow the road on the west side of town, stay close to the river and end up around. In summer there is a public toilet. This is wild camping, and there is no guard or services.

It is also easy to find a room in the house of a local.

• The Doctor’s House Hostel, Pehlivanuša 67 (Straight up the hill from the Cathedral). Smallish hostel managed by a well-traveled American woman in a cozy house on the hillside who goes out of her way to help her guests out. Dorm beds with privacy curtain, reading light, and charging station, big lockers, well-equipped kitchen, great views from the balconies. Free WiFi. From 20 KM. 
• Haris Youth Hostel, Vratnik Mejdan 29. The owner, a young chap named Haris, also owns a tourism agency right near the pigeon square at Kovaci 1 and can take you on tours around the city, annotated with his own personal experiences from the war. Although you must walk uphill for about ten minutes from the main square to get there, it is worth the walk for the beautiful view and hospitable, warm atmosphere. 
• Hostel & Guesthouse SA, Hrvatin 15. Family-run hostel. It also provides free pick up from the train/bus/airport station. It has an awesome view of the city. From 24 KM. 
• Hostel City Centre Sarajevo, Saliha Hadzihuseinovica Muvekita No. 2/3 (Between Ferhadija and Zelenih beretki streets). Check-out: 10:00. Renovated and located in the heart of Sarajevo. Very clean and tidy place to stay with kitchen facilities, 2 large living and common rooms, cable TV, free internet and wifi. They have 4- ,5- ,6- and 10-bed mixed dorms plus 2,3 and 4 bed private rooms. In April 2012, bed in 10-bed dorm was 25 KM. Dorm bed: €15, Double room €20. (updated Apr 2016)
• Motel Jasmin, Kupreska 26 (in the heart of Bascarsija). Singles, doubles, triples with separate bathrooms and TV. From 30 KM including breakfast. 
• Hostel Ljubičica, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 65 (in the Old Town, next to the Bascarsija tram stop). The room offered might be a dormitory located in one of several places – it might be along Mule Mustafa ulica, or else up the hill to the east of town. If you are visiting for the first time, you can make arrangements online or by phone, and also arrange with them to be picked up at the train station, or the two bus stations in the city. The owner of this hostel has a small scam going in that she charges people for a ‘daily registration’ of 3 KM, despite the authorities only requiring that a person be registered once when entering the country at no charge. Also, the rooms and hostel are not very clean. 23 KM/dorm. 
• Hostel Posillipo, Besarina Cikma 5 (almost directly opposite the fountain). Staff is very friendly and informative on everything from good restaurants to tales of the 1990s conflict. 30 KM. 
• Hostel/Prenociste Kod Keme, Mali Ćurčiluk 15 (in the heart of Bascarsija). Single: 30 KM. 
• Pansion Sebilj, Bravadžiluk bb (Obala Kulina baba between Careve cuprija and Novi most at the Miljacka riverside). Most of the staff speaks English fluently. An internet-cafe is downstairs in the same house, a restaurant in the atrium. The restaurants in the Old Town, groceries and a pharmacy are all in walking distance. Dealing with the sleeping areas only – good things: Location, friendly staff, hot water, clean. Bad things: No internet, walls are paper thin – you can hear someone cough (or scream) in the next room easily as well as the loud music from downstairs until about midnight, uncomfortable slat beds. Unisex showers (only 2) and bathroom. No way to lock bathroom or shower area when inside. No laundry service, no kitchen. No lockers for gear. 30 KM. 
• Hostel Tower, Hadzisabanovica 15, , toll-free: +387 61 566 350. Dorm bed: 20-30 KM. 
• Hotel Hayat, Abdesthana 27 (A less than 5-minute walk northeast from the Kovači Square, near Bascarsija). US$70. (updated Nov 2021)
• Hotel & Hostel Kan Sarajevo, Brace Begic 35 (near the bus station). Single to quadruple bed- bedrooms as well as apartments. Restaurant on site and personal assistance with sightseeing. From 40 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

Mid-range

• Garni Hotel Konak, Mula Mustafe Başeskije 54 (Take the number 1 tram from the train station to Pigeon Square. Follow the tram tracks west for two blocks, and it will be on your left, look for a red and white sign.). Built in 1962 and completely renovated in 2008. Staff are friendly, speak English, and in the off season can be persuaded to negotiate. Hotel amenities include breakfast, Ensuite bathrooms and internet connected computers, while the hostel rooms are double bed privates with satellite television which share a bathroom among three rooms. Single: €50-60; Double: €70-80. 
• Hotel Hecco Deluxe, Ferhadija 2. Hotel poses 15 furnished suits towards latest world standards. There is a restaurant on the 10th floor, which offers unforgettable view on panorama of Sarajevo. (updated Nov 2021)
• Hotel Michele, Ivana Cankara 27. The staff is wonderfully nice, breakfast and laundry included and also features private parking with direct elevator access to the room floors and wireless high speed internet. 
• Hotel VIP, Jaroslava Černija br 3. Latin bridge is 300 metres from Hotel VIP, while Bascarsija Street is 300 metres away. Sarajevo Airport is 9 km from the property. (updated Nov 2021)
• Motel Sokak, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 24 (Just down the road from the Bascarsija tram stop.). It’s small clean, quiet, friendly and comfortable, in an old building but modern inside. Double: US$100. (updated Nov 2021)
• Opal Home Sarajevo (Hotel Opal Home), Despićeva 4. The four-star hotel with modern design and luxury interior, which opened in 2014, offers 12 comfortable rooms and 22 beds. (updated Nov 2021)
• Pansion Čobanija, Čobanija 29. Private bathrooms and satellite television. The rooms are clean and well-kept, and a continental breakfast is provided. €50. 
• Pansion Stari Grad, Sagrdžije 29A (walk up the hill from the Sebilj). Check-out: 10:00-11:00. A cozy hotel on walking distance from the old town with friendly staff willing to help travelers get around the city with maps and tips. They have 2 wifi networks: net_7413 (password: 102030102030) for the entire building, and 7D5DC8 for rooms 308 and 309 (password: 286283949). (updated Nov 2021)
• Hotel Terex, Ive Andrica 23, 71123 Dobrinja (on a walking distance from the airport), , fax: +387 57 317 150. A smaller hotel surrounded by soviet tenements in the residential area of Dobrinja, close to the Dobrinja commercial district. 180 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Hotel Imzit, Lukavička Cesta. Basic hotel at the outskirts of Dobrinja at the foot of Suma Mojmilo hill. 160 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Hotel Octagon, Akifa Šeremeta 48. A lovely 3 star hotel in a residential area right across from the airport, ideally suited for business travelers with a lay-over of a night. 160 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

Splurge

• Hotel Holiday (formerly Holiday Inn), Zmaja od Bosne 4, 71000 Sarajevo (5 minute walk the train and bus station, and about 10 minutes’ walk from the town Centre.), , fax: +387 33 288 288. Check-in: 12 noon, check-out: 12 noon. Clean, safe, nice private rooms with private bathroom and shower, well-maintained. Friendly staff speaks English. Credit cards accepted. The restaurant on the third floor is great. €118. (updated Nov 2021)
• Hotel Bristol Sarajevo (Novotel Sarajevo Bristol), Fra Filipa Lastrića 2 (15 minutes by car from airport, 5 min walk to Parliament, 5 min by car to Old Town). Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Completely renovated. Great rooms and comfortable beds. Friendly staff, three restaurants/cafés. No alcohol served, halal certified (but the pretty wide breakfast spread might contain some dubious dishes). Held in regard now as one of the best large hotels in the city. Entrance fee to a small spa is included in the room price. The easiest way to get to the old town is by taxi (which can be ordered from the reception), and the nearest tram stop is Pofalići (~300 m). Superior room from 160 KM. 
• Hotel Central, Ćumurija 8 (right across the popular Strossmayerova pedestrian street). One of the oldest hotels in the city historically renowned for its spa, it is now considered one of the prime boutique hotels after its recent renovation. Also the spa is excellent. 
• Hotel Colors Inn (Colors Inn Sarajevo), Koševo 8. Colors Inn Hotel Sarajevo has 37 luxury single and double rooms and a private parking. (updated Nov 2021)

• Hotel Europe, Vladislava Skarića 5 (right next to the old Turkish bazaar, Bezistan, and Tašlihan). Built in 1882 right next to medieval ruins, it was recently renovated, elevating it to five-star premier boutique status. Home to many celebrities who come to work or visit the city, such as John Travolta, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. The in-house Viennese Café is great, offering many Central European as well as local specialties. The hotel offers a view over the Tašlihan archaeological site right next to it. (updated Nov 2021)
• Hotel President Sarajevo, Bazardžani 1. Located near the Centre of the old town of Sarajevo. Hotel President offers 72 comfortable rooms, garage, breakfast room, Congress Hall as well as a Café/lobby bar. (updated Nov 2021)
• Radon Plaza, Džemala Bijedića 185 (at the bottom of Avaz tower, next to the BMW showroom). It is named after the last name of its owner, who is also the owner of Avaz newspaper and one of the city’s wealthiest people. US$138. 
• Hotel Espana, Ive Andrića bb, 71123 Lukavica (on a walking distance from the airport), , fax: +387 57 961 202. Hotel in a calmer residential area of Sarajevo on the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina. 220 KM. (updated Nov 2021)

Telecommunications in Sarajevo

There are four mobile operators active in Sarajevo: BH Telecom (060, 061, 062), m:tel (065, 066, 067), HT Eronet (063) and Haloo (064). There is no 4G/LTE coverage, but 3G is widely available. Since Bosnia and Herzegovina is not part of the EU, nor the EEA, where from June 2017 new international roaming rules are enforced, the roaming rates are not capped or regulated in the country and can be much higher. Instead, Bosnia and Herzegovina is part of an own Balkan roaming zone with Montenegro, Serbia and North Macedonia where international data roaming is capped at €0.20 per MB from July 2017. It is advised to buy a local SIM card, from any of the operators, which can be purchased in one of the many kiosks around the city. BH Telecom and m:tel have special offers aimed towards tourists, starting from 20 KM for 5 GB.

The local area code is +387 33 (Kanton Sarajevo) and the local post/zip code is 71000.

• BH Telecom, Sarači 60. Monday to Friday 08:00-22:00, Sa 08:00-16:00, Su closed. Basic mobile internet package for 5 KM or € 2.5 (300 MB) and “Ultra Tourist 1” for 20 KM (5 GB). Ask for BH Mobile’s Tourist SIM. 5 – 40 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Central Post Office (BH Pošta), Obala Kulina bana 8. Central post office with a decorated counter hall that expands 40×15 m. The building was heavily damaged during the Bosnian War, but restored under guidance of Croatian architect Josip Vancaš. (updated Nov 2021)
• Sarajevo Regional Postal Center (Centar Pošta Sarajevo), Put života bb. (updated Nov 2021)

Stay safe and avoid Scams in Sarajevo

There are still many minefields and unexploded ordnances in the Sarajevo area and its surrounding suburbs. Never go into damaged buildings (which are really rarely seen) and always stick to paved surfaces avoiding grassy hills that surround the city . Areas that are not cleared are marked by yellow tape or signs, but still not all minefields have been identified due to the lack of resources and the lack of international help. Paved roads are always safe. Crime against foreigners is very rare and the city is safe to visit. (As with any country in former Yugoslavia, be careful not to get into sensitive discussions about politics with people you do not know, but even those can be very educational when you come across a person who’s willing to discuss it.) Be aware of pick pockets who usually operate on public transportation vehicles.

Bosnia and Herzegovina has double the traffic fatality rate in Europe as a whole, and Sarajevo has recently seen a few high-profile accidents with pedestrians. Be alert whether driving or crossing the street.

Sarajevo has instituted nighttime water restrictions between 00:00 and 05:00. This is to limit water lost from the city’s old and deteriorating leaky pipes. Consider filling up a water bottle in the evening. (Rest assured Sarajevo has safe—indeed extremely high quality—tap water, when it’s running.)

A final point on health and safety is that the air in Sarajevo can be noticeably thick with pollution, so that asthmatics or those with other chest problems may find themselves short of breath a lot of the time, particularly at night. Ensure you have ample medication, just in case.

ICE

• General emergency number. 
• Police. 
• Fire. 
• Ambulance. 
• Mountain Rescue, , toll-free: 121. 
• BIHAMK (Road Assistance). 
• Cantonal Police Station (Policijska stanica Centar), Augusta Brauna 5, , fax: +387 33 443 643. (updated Nov 2021)

Stay healthy due to COVID-19 in Sarajevo

The most significant risk to your health, land mines aside, is posed by the sun itself. Protect skin and eyes with adequate sun screen and sun glasses, which can be obtained at the apothecary.

• Apotheka Al-Hana, Ulika Patka 2 (across Pansion Stari Grad). General apothecary, selling sun screen for 7.60 KM and sun glasses for 48.90 KM. (updated Nov 2021)
• Apoteka Baščaršija (Apoteke Sarajevo), Obala Kulina bana 40. (updated Nov 2021)
• Apoteka Dobrinja (Apoteke Sarajevo), Salke Lagumdžije 15. (updated Nov 2021)
• Apoteka Hitna (Apoteke Sarajevo), Kolodvorska 14. (updated Nov 2021)
• Apoteka Marijin dvor (Apoteke Sarajevo), Maršala Tita 1. The pharmacy is housed in a residential-commercial building Marienhof (Marijin dvor) built between 1885 and 1899 in Late Historicism style, designed by Karl Pařík. The building was built for an eminent Austrian businessman August Brown and named after his wife. (updated Nov 2021)
• Apoteka Novo Sarajevo (Apoteke Sarajevo), Zmaja od Bosne 51. (updated Nov 2021)
• General Hospital (Prim. dr. Abdulah Nakaš), Kranjčevićeva 12. 

Water from fountains and taps in Sarajevo is safe to drink, but it may have a strong and unpleasant chlorine odor depending on the season.

Respect

Cultural heritage from the Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and most recently Yugoslav periods has been assimilated into modern Sarajevo as a multicultural, multireligious metropole. Catholic and Orthodox Christians, Muslims, and Jews share the city, and as such, common sense regarding respect towards people of these religious backgrounds should be upheld. Even the younger generation is on average very religious in comparison to other European capitals, although not all religious traditions may be followed equally strictly. For example, young Muslims may choose to drink wine, but refuse pork meat, while older Muslims likely refuse both. Keep this in mind when offering presents to your host family. When visiting mosques, skin-covering clothing should be worn, and women should wear a veil covering their hair. At the most touristic mosques, veils will be available to visitors for this purpose.

Although the Bosnian War ended with a UN enforced cease fire, the underlying conflicts between the different ethnic groups in Sarajevo are far from resolved. Many inhabitants have survived the siege of the city from 1992-95, and almost everyone has lost relatives and/or friends in the conflict. Strong anti-Serb sentiments may be present among the Bosniak population, and scars from the war are left in memory. While the war is not a taboo subject, as evidenced by the many memorials and museums scattered around the city, it remains a sensitive topic that easily brings up negative memories, if addressed uncomprehendingly. Aside from anti-Serb sentiments, many also feel dismay or anger towards the United Nations, which are blamed for the Srebrenica massacre and inadequate protection of Sarajevo citizens during the Siege.

There is an ongoing dispute between Bosnian unionists and Serb separatists, striving for the independence of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Since some neighborhoods of Sarajevo are on the territory of Republika Srpska, opinions will vary depending on where you ask in the city. The political situation in Sarajevo in particular is complex, and outsiders taking a position may be accused of uninformed interference in internal Bosnian affairs. In general, it is advised to abstain from discussing politics, unless your conversation partner brings up the topic him/herself and asks for your opinion.

Cope

Children

The Sarajevo City Center mall features a large play area for children. BBI Centar also has one, but it’s smaller. Both malls are slightly west of the downtown on the main road.

Embassies & Consulates in Sarajevo

Diplomatic Missions accredited to Bosnia and Herzegovina, which have a representative in Sarajevo with consular competencesCountryAddressTel.FaxEmail

Austria	Dzidzikovac 7	.	fax: +387 33 668 339.	.
Azerbaijan	Džemala Bijedića 305, 71210 Ilidža, Sarajevo	.	fax: +387 33 695 801.	.
Belgium	Grbavička 4	.	fax: +387 33 208 362.	.
Brazil	Grbavicka 4 (2nd floor)	.  .	fax: +387 33 921 804.	.  .
Bulgaria	Radnička 30	.	fax: +387 33 668 189.	.
China	Braće Begić 17	.  .  .	fax: +387 33 215 105.  fax: +387 33 215 108.	.  .
Croatia	Ulica maršala Tita 28	.	fax: +387 33 472 434.	.
Czech Republic	Franjevačka 13	.	fax: +387 33 587 060.	.
Egypt	Nurudina Gackića 58	.  .	fax: +387 33 666 499.	.  .
France	Mehmed bega Kapetanović Ljubušaka 18	.	fax: +387 33 282 052.	.
Germany	Skenderija 3	.	fax: +387 33 206 400.	.
Greece	Obala Maka Dizdara 1	.	fax: +387 33 203 512.	.
Hungary	Ulica Splitska 2	.	fax: +387 33 268 930.	.
Indonesia	Splitska 9	.	fax: +387 33 568 528.	.
Iran	Obala Maka Dizdara 6	.  .	fax: +387 33 663 910.	.  .
Italy	Cekalusa 39	.  .  .  .  .  .	fax: +387 33 659 368.	.
Japan	Bistrik 9	.	fax: +387 33 209 583.	.
Kuwait	Ulica Telirovića 1 (Talirevića 1)	.	fax: +387 33 207 636.	.
Libya	Patriotske lige 45	.  .	fax: +387 33 226 423.	.
North Macedonia	Splitska 57	.  .	fax: +387 33 810 760.	.
Malaysia	Radnicka 4a	.	fax: +387 33 810 036.	.  .
Montenegro	Derviša Numića 24	.	fax: +387 33 239 928.	.
Netherlands	Grbavička 4	.	fax: +387 33 223 413.	.
Norway	Ferhadija 20	.	fax: +387 33 666 505.	.
Pakistan	Emerika Bluma 17	.  .	fax: +387 33 211 837.	.
Poland	Višnjik 20	.	fax: +387 33 290 519.	.
Qatar	Dajanli Ibrahim-bega 23	.  .  .	fax: +387 33 205 351.	.
Romania	Čobanija 28	.	fax: +387 33 668 940.	.
Russian Federation	Urijan Dedina 93-95	.  .	fax: +387 33 668 148.	.
San Marino	Mjedenica 33	.	.	.
Saudi Arabia	Ulica Kalemova 40	.  .	fax: +387 33 212 204.	.  .
Serbia	Obala Maka Dizdara 3a	.  .	fax: +387 33 221 469.	.
Slovakia	Trnovska 6	.	fax: +387 33 716 410.	.
Slovenia	Maglajska 4	.	fax: +387 33 251 773.	.  .
Sovereign Order of Malta	Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 12/II	.  .	fax: +387 33 668 632.	.
Spain	Ulica Mehmeda Mujezinovića 13 A	.	fax: +387 33 239 155.	.
Sweden	Ferhadija 20	.	fax: +387 33 276 060.	.
Switzerland	Zmaja od Bosne 11 (RBBH, Building B)	.  .	fax: +387 33 570 120.  fax: +387 33 271 500.	.  .
Turkey	Vilsonovo Setaliste bb (Vilsonovo šetalište bb)	.  .  .  .	fax: +387 33 267 261.  fax: +387 33 568 794.  fax: +387 33 568 777.	.
United Kingdom	Hamdije Cemerlica street 39a (Hamdije Čemerlića 39a)	.	fax: +387 33 282 203.	.
United States	1 Robert C. Frasure Street (Ulica Roberta C. Frasuera)	.	fax: +387 33 659 722.	.
Vatican	Pehlivanuša 9	.  .	fax: +387 33 551 057.	.

Go next

• Konjic is on the Neretva river, 43 km southwest of Sarajevo, where in 2011 the Tito bunker and Bijenale contemporary art exhibition were opened to the public.
• Jablanica, famous as the site for the Battle of Neretva and the necropolis
• Mostar
• Belgrade, Serbia