Banja Luka (also written Banjaluka or Бања Лука) is a picturesque city in the western part of Bosnia and Herzegovina and is the administrative capital and the largest city of Republika Srpska and the second largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Introduction to Banja Luka

The Republika Srpska has a turbulent recent past, which motivates some people to be less than enthusiastic of many things Serb in Bosnia. A 1969 earthquake destroyed most of the town and in 1993 local Serbs blew up the city’s mosques, including the famous Ferhadija, built in 1580. Ferhadija has been rebuilt.

Weather in Banja Luka

Banja Luka has a continental climate, with harsh winters and warm summers. The warmest month of the year is July, with an average temperature of 21.3°C (70°F). The coldest month of the year is January, when temperatures average near freezing at 0.8°C (33°F). Annual precipitation for Banja Luka is about 988mm. Banja Luka has an average of 143 rainy days a year. Due to the city’s high latitude, it snows in Banja Luka almost every year as well. Strong winds come from the north and north-east.

Talk

In Banja Luka most locals call their language Serbian, although there are plenty of people who refer to the language as Bosnian, BHS, or as ‘Naš’. Anyway, those languages are virtually the same. Sometimes you’ll find (road)signs written in Cyrillic.

Get in

Take a bus to Banja Luka

The bus station is roughly 2 km to the north of the Centre. There are taxis right at the exit of the bus which for ~10 marks (KM) can drive you to the Centre. The city bus leaves from next to the train station, 200 m away, and a fare to the Centre is less than 2 km. The Wi-Fi password of the café at the bus station is neobasbl

• Agencija Neobas, Jevrejska. You can buy your ticket at the bus station, or at the Neobas tourist agency in the Centre of town, Jevrejska bb (Novi Zanatski Centar). Prices are the same. 

There are direct bus connections from the main bus station to

• The bus station is roughly 2 km to the north of the centre. There are taxis right at the exit of the bus which for ~10 marks (KM) can drive you to the centre. The city bus leaves from next to the train station, 200 m away and a fare to the centre is less than 2 km. The Wi-Fi password of the café at the bus station is neobasbl
  • Agencija Neobas You can buy your ticket at the bus station, or at the Neobas tourist agency in the centre of town, Jevrejska bb (Novi Zanatski Centar). Prices are the same.

  There are direct bus connections from the main bus station to

  • Bosnia: Sarajevo, Šipovo, Prijedor, Bosansko Gradiška, Bosansko Grahovo, Trebinje, Prijedor, Teslić, Banja Vrućica, Novi Grad, Gornji Graci, Višegrad, Bihać…
  • Austria: Vienna, Linz and Salzburg
  • Croatia: Zagreb, Makarska, Pula, Split, Zadar, Rijeka
  • Denmark: Copenhagen
  • France: Paris, Lyon..
  • Germany: Cologne, Dortmund, Duisburg, Dusseldorf, Essen, Frankfurt am Main, Ingolstadt, Karlsruhe, Mannheim, Munich, Nuremberg, Pforzheim, Stuttgart and Ulm
  • Montenegro: Igalo, Podgorica
  • Netherlands: Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Maastricht
  • Serbia: Belgrade, Novi Sad Kragujevac, Sombor, Zrenjanin, Niš, Subotica
  • Sweden: Stockholm
  • Switzerland: Zürich, Luzern

  Several international buses from Western Europe to Bosnia follow the route Zagreb – Bosanski Brod – Derventa – Doboj – Sarajevo, providing you with a wide detour around Banja Luka

  Normally you would get out of those buses at Derventa but if the weather is al right and its not in the middle of the night, you could ask the bus driver to let you already out at the Novska gas station (3 km after the Novska exit) on the Zagreb-Bosanski Brod highway, approx 3 hours before Derventa. From the Novska gas station its another 15 km hitchhike to Okučani, the highway exit to Banja Luka (the bus won’t let you off there, it is off the highway, but its easy for cars to drop you off there). From Okučani its 3 km (hitch)hike to the Bosnian border. You can then cross the border on foot (or hitching) and continue the last lap of your travel by taking a bus to BL in Bosanska Gradiska (approx 8 KM). This will almost always save you several hours and totally widens the spectrum of buses available to travel to Banja Luka.

Several international buses from Western Europe to Bosnia follow the route Zagreb – Bosanski Brod – Derventa – Doboj – Sarajevo, providing you with a wide detour around Banja Luka

Normally you would get out of those buses at Derventa but if the weather is al right and its not in the middle of the night, you could ask the bus driver to let you already out at the Novska gas station (3 km after the Novska exit) on the Zagreb-Bosanski Brod highway, approx 3 hours before Derventa. From the Novska gas station its another 15 km hitchhike to Okučani, the highway exit to Banja Luka (the bus won’t let you off there, it is off the highway, but its easy for cars to drop you off there). From Okučani its 3 km (hitch)hike to the Bosnian border. You can then cross the border on foot (or hitching) and continue the last lap of your travel by taking a bus to BL in Bosanska Gradiska (approx 8 KM). This will almost always save you several hours, and totally widens the spectrum of buses available to travel to Banja Luka.

Fly to Banja Luka

• • Banja Luka International Airport IATA Code: BNX Regular flights to Belgrade with Air Serbia and seasonal to Tivat (Montenegro).

  Smiljić bus company arranges a minibus/taxi to and from the airport to the old busstation (stara autbuska stanica) in the centre of town.  The charge is 10 KM for a one-way ticket. So if your with three or more, it’s probably just as affordable to go by cab.

Travel by train to Banja Luka

The train (and bus) station is located around 2 km southeast of the centre. Connections to: Doboj and Sarajevo (5 hr), Zagreb (5 hr) and Ploče (Croatia) and to Belgrade (Serbia). There are only a few trains passing the station each day, but tickets are a bit cheaper than the bus and the train is generally more comfortable.

Ride-sharing

Ride-sharing too and from Banja Luka is in 2012 often done through the Trazim- nudim prevoz Facebook group.

Get around

By bike

You can have your bike fixed á la minute at the Bike Servis Shop , in the Ul. Gundulićeva 104 – next to the football stadion. Tel. 051/301-470. Another bike shop is 5 doors down in the row of buildings.

The tourist office owns 15 rental bicycles, which are maintained by the above bike shop. Rental: 1 KM/hour, or 15 KM/day.

Car rental

• Rentacar Omega: Ul. 1 Krajiškog Korpusa 58, tel. 065/610-040 or 065/777-888, omega@blic.net. 60 KM per day, 55 KM/day if longer than 3 days.

Sightseeing in Banja Luka

There are many historic things to see in the city of Banja Luka.

• Kastel fortress on the bank of the Vrbas river with history up to Roman ages.
• Ferhat-Pasha Mosque (Ferhat-pašina džamija), (also called Ferhadija mosque) This example of Islamic 16th century architecture was built during the time of the Ottoman rule. Built in 1579 it has a central fountain called Shaderwan, stone and iron fence. It is built in the classical Ottoman style. Ferhadija was listed as a cultural heritage of Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1950. Later it was protected by UNESCO World Heritage List until destroyed in 1993. The site and the remains of the mosque today are a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the mosque is under reconstruction.
• Cathedral of Saint Bonaventure Built in 1887, the 1969 earthquake leveled the church. The current cathedral was built in 1974.
• Banski Dvor (Governor’s Palace) in Centre of the city. Built in the 1930s. A concert hall and gallery. This is the main cultural Centre   .
• Monastery of Gomionica from 16th century near Banja Luka. Monastery has the collection of ancient icons from 18th century.
• The Trapist monastery, close to Pivara Banjaluka. The monastery is the only trapist monastery in the Western Balkans and it was reopened in 2008. It is known for its home-made wines and cheese. Address: Slatinska 1 (on the road to Slatina)

And contemporary things:

• Gospodska street, actually Veselin Masleša street, is the main street of city with shops, offices and cafes (on bottom) alongside. Recommended time to visit, because of its liveliness, is during day on Saturdays whole day, and between 12:00 and 14:00 on workdays. During evenings visit on Fridays and Sundays or each day in the case of nice climate.
• Dom Omladine  , Đure Danićića 1. The “youth Centre” run by the local youth council, with regular concerts, performances, expos, workshops, etc. (it is closed due to local politics).
• Christ the Saviour Church, located in the downtown.. This church is in the city’s Centre, and it is one of the most expensive and most beautiful churches in the region. 

What to do in Banja Luka

Banja Luka is a city with the rich night life. The best place for night occasion is Kruna club at the top of merchant building in Gospodska street. Others are Opium in basement of hotel Bosna , cafe Focus in bottom of Gospodska street.

• Boom Boom Room, Veselina Maslese 15-17 (Gospodska ulica). In a town where folk music is a general trend, Boom Boom Room is the first club in Banja Luka offering unique, world-like atmosphere,playing exclusively DJ electronic music. Located in the very heart of the city, open W-Sa. 
• Demofest klub (DFK), Patre 5 (entrance across the street from Kastel). Offers a colourful programme with diverse music, live gigs from various bands, all genres of music except folk, decent after-parties and average drink prices. 
• Market, Knjasa Milosa (Right next to the busstation). 08:00-14:00. The market, close to the bus- and train station is worth your while. Seems to be coming straight from the countryside, each day of the week in the morning you can buy everything you need there, from vegetables to hardware to second hand freezers. On Sunday cars are on sale – and an occasional French-plated Mercedes, on Tuesdays livestock. 
• Take a Dajak tour over the Vrbas from (“Zeleni most” – Prvi mlin – Kastel – “Zeleni most”), 20 KM/one person; 25 KM/two persons, 30 KM/three persons, (maximum: three persons for one boat) Contact numbers: 065/517-261 or 065/566-139.
• Multipleks Palas (Cinema), Trg Krajina (underneath Boska). Cinema Palas with your fair amount of blockbusters and some local movies. 
• Restoran Slap (Swim), Novoselija (go to the east shore of the Vrbas, and continue the road all the way south until you come to Novoselija). Restaurant Slap (Waterfall) lies next to a small barrage in the Vrbas and it is excellent swimming there on hot summer days when the water is not too high. 
• Charitable organization Duga, Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića 88 (between the Government building and the Tobacco Factory, sharing the yard with a kindergarten). If you are interested in the traditional arts and crafts of the region, Duga can offer fantastic learning opportunities to you. Contact Duga and arrange a visit where you can watch and learn from local craftspeople as they conduct live demonstrations of a wide range of handicrafts including weaving, crocheting, embroidery and knitting. You will be able to have a “hands on” experience and a chance to learn new skills in the process. 

Events

• Demofest. Festival of alternative music, usually lasting three days, consisting of two different parts: each evening there is a contest of demo bands, with two semifinal nights and the finals, which are held on the third day of the festival, and concerts of bands with more reputation following each part of the contest. 
• Banjalukanima. Animaton films, October 
• Kratkofil. Festival of short films in summer 
• Neofest. Pop music, organised by Dom Omladine. 

Rafting

Go rafting on the parcours of the 2009 World Championships of rafting in the Canyon of the Vrbas with Buk,, buk@blic.net, Jesenjinova 1, 50 KM per person, or with the much more posh Kanjon Rafting Club in Karanovac.

Shopping in Banja Luka

Many establishments (especially hotels) accept euros (notes only). ATMs are all over the place with MasterCard, Visa and other offshoots being accepted. Credit cards such as Visa, MasterCard and Diners Club are readily accepted by larger establishments all over the country. When changing money, it is best to ask for small bills as shops often are hard-pressed for change. Travelers cheques can be readily changed at Raiffeisen and Zagrebačka Banks.

Tipping

It is not compulsory to tip in Banja Luka, though a reward of about 10% for good service in restaurant is always appreciated.

Souvenirs

You can get local, handicraft souvenirs for example at the shop of association “Duga”. All items there are made of natural materials by traditional technologies, and are decorated with ornaments from original traditional clothing from the area of Dinara. Their collection contains: ethno souvenirs, decorative products and clothing. Address: Etnoradionica “Duga”, Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića 88 (the same street as the city hall) All of the handicrafts are produced in an ethical manner and by purchasing them you will help Duga to continue providing aid to all of its beneficiaries and support to other local humanitarian projects.

Next to Kastel is also a souvenir shop, look for the big “Suvenir”-sign.

Where to eat in Banja Luka

Traditional food

If you like meat, you’ll love Banja Luka. Meat is a standard for any meal. However, there is still lots of interesting meals you can make do if you are a vegetarian.

Here is a list of the most popular traditional dishes:

• Ćevapi – small meat sausages of lamb and beef mix. They are usually served with fresh onions and pita bread (lepinja) on the side. Ćevapi usually come in pointer finger size sausages and are offered by five or ten pieces, although the variety commonly found in Banja Luka (banjalučki ćevap) usually consists of quadrangular pieces of meat.
• Pita – traditional pies, e.g., burek (with meat, which is different than in Serbia!), krompirusa (potato), sirnica (cheese) zeljanica (spinach), tikve (courgette) or with gljive (mushrooms). Normally, krompirusa and tikve are vegan (no animal products). You’d eat your pita with yoghurt (not vegan)
• Bamija – a dish of meat cooked with okra, a traditional vegetable.
• Sarma – meat and rice rolled in cabbage or grape leaves.
• Teletina – is veal, usually served in cutlets. Veal in B&H is not produced by locking calves in a cage to ensure softer meat.
• Janjetina – lamb grilled over an open fire.
• Musaka – a meat pie made of minced beef, very similar to shepherds pie.
• Filovane paprike – fried peppers stuffed with minced meat and spices.
• Pršut – air dried ham, similar to Italian proscuitto.
• “Ispod Sača” – similar to Dutch oven. A metal dish is placed on hot coals, the food is placed in the dish and covered by a lid which is then completely covered in hot coals and left to bake.
• Vlašićki Sir – similar to Travnički cheese. It is a highland cheese from the mountain villages on Vlašić Mountain in central Bosnia.
• Mladi Sir – Cottage cheese. It has a soft texture and is unsalted. Oftentimes it is served with a cream sauce on top. It is very healthy.
• Kajmak – is analogous to clotted cream in the UK. The top layer of fat skimmed from milk, it is creamy and extremely tasty. Kajmak and Uštipak (doughnut type roll) is a wonderful appetizer.
• Iz mjeha – sheep milk poured into a specially sewn sheep skin ‘bag’. After a time the dry cheese is taken out of the skin container and the result is a strong, dry cheese that resembles real Parmesan.

Where to stay in Banja Luka

• Hotel Cezar Banja Luka. Mladena Stojanovića 123. 
• Hotel Palace, Kralja Petra, Karadjordjevića 60. 
• Hotel Bosna. Karađorđevića 97. 
• Hotel Atina. 
• Hotel Grand. Subotička bb. 
• Hotel Talija, 9 Srpska Street. 
• Hotel Vidovic, Ul. Jevrejska. There are two restaurants within the hotel, one showcasing the local cuisine and the other à la carte. 
• Elit Motel Dragana. 
• Hotel Banja Luka, Mladena Stojanovica 123. 
• Hostel Banja Luka, Srpskih ustanika 26 (1.5 km from city Centre, part of a town called Starcevica, very close to Merkator Centre and almost across Integral gas station). Check-out: 14:00. Comfortable ambiance and friendly staff. Restaurant and free Internet. 10. 
• Hostel Hertz, Milana Rakića 22 (in the Centre of Banja Luka (Borik), next to the Vrbas river). Check-out: 14:00. Free internet access, free coffee in the café Hertz, quiet place to rest. €11 (dorm), €15 (private room). 

Possibility to pitch a tent in their huge back garden

• Hostel Zeleni Most (Green bridge), 9. ul. Braca Moraca (On the west side of the Zeleni Most (Green Bridge), 500m from the city Centre). Check-in: 24/7. Right across Kod Nane-restaurant €11/night. 

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